LD, $6-$10, Closed Mon.
Blue Nile
In Ethiopia, the staff of life also becomes the fork and spoon of the meal (or the scoop, to be more precise). Called Injera, this sponge grown into a giant pancake is also the very plate on which the food is placed. Somewhat similar to a huge French Crepe, Injera is made of Teff (a tiny grain of Ethiopian wheat) mixed with water and a fermenting starter, giving it tart and sweet overtones. The batter is poured onto a hot griddle and as it cooks, bubbles form and burst, leaving tiny craters to catch the various gravies. When the top seems dry to the touch, it is ready. The people in the homeland are very communal, it seems, and when they eat, they like to offer their dining neighbors bites of food, so they pick up a piece of injera topped with the meal of the day, and gently put it in their neighbor's mouth. Abel, and his mother Almaz, the cook, won't insist that others feed you, even if you sit at one of the special woven basket covered stands surrounded by the traditional small stools and tables. In fact, the food tastes so good you'll want to feed yourself lots of it. Try the Kay Seer Salad, Misir Azifa or the Shrimp with that wonderful dipping sauce for an appetizer, followed by a Blue Nile mixed salad with feta, tomatoes and olives. For the entrees, there are many ways to top an Injera in both a vegetarian and/or a carnivorous way. Yedor Watt, Tebbs, Atkilt, Gored Gored, Kitfo (have it served warm) and Konta Firfir are some of my favorites. Yemisir Watt, Kik Alitcha, Alkilt Watt, Tikil Gomen and Gomen Watt are great vegetarian sides to accompany the main dishes. Desserts are limited to flan and coffeecake, but don't miss their Ethiopian coffee.
933 E. University Dr., Suite 112, Tempe, 480-377-1113.
LD $6.95-$8.95
Bombay Spice — is to Indian food what Pei Wei is to Chinese food. Lovely to look at, and priced somewhat reasonably, the dishes served at this new and handsomely appointed eatery are Americanized too far to suit me, but, judging by the crowds, commonality breeds popularity. Touted as “fresh, healthy, redefined Indian Food,” the average Raj would have difficulty claiming this cuisine as his own, though most of the ingredients would be the same. Just the spices have been toned down for the average Joe. Best bets are the Chicken Lentil Cakes, Seared Scallops and Lamb Chops of the Appetizers and main dishes with Beef Tikka, Eggplant or Spinach Tofu with the Raita or Awesome Sauce, depending on your love of fresh coriander (cilantro). For dessert, try the Rice Pudding with cardamom, saffron and pistachio.
7000 N. 16th St. (NW corner at Glendale Ave.), Phoenix, 602-371-0111. www.bombayspice.com.
LD, $4-$11, Closed Sun., SV
Cafe Istanbul
Finally in their new and much bigger digs, a market with packaged and canned goods, cooking and serving implements, spices and a fresh meat section takes up the majority of the space, while the restaurant is, somewhat like an afterthought, plunked in the back. Its space seems more casual than the old — a change, but not an improvement at all. But, once we tasted the food, we were terribly relieved that, if anything, the move has improved its quality. Don't let the tag line "Mid-Eastern Healthy Food" turn you off. Istanbul proves "healthy" and "delicious" are not a contradiction.
With 24 starters, it might be tempting to go grazing instead of ordering a traditional meal. However, the Al Amir Combo (for two) of Hummus, Tabbouly, (vegetarian) Grape Leaves, Feta Cheese, Babaghanouj (eggplant and tahini dip), Mjadara (a lentil dip), Loubyeh-BiZeit (green beans with tomatoes and onions) and Falafel, plus Lamb, Chicken and Kafta Kebobs hits most of the appetizer high points with a bonus of entrees to boot ($29.95 [$14.98 each] for dinner, $7 less for lunch).
Two spectacularly good Appetizers ($2.95-$5.95+) that can be shared by a small group are the Hummus with Meat (diced beef or chicken and pine nuts) and the Armenian Pizza (a pita bread stuffed with ground lamb, pine nuts and some intriguing spices). I prefer the Lebanese Lamb Sausage to the Armenian Spicy Beef version, and love the Lamb Tongue sauteed in lemon garlic sauce, a good choice for the adventurous. At $4.95-$5.25,
Sandwiches are a steal here, and even come with golden fries. Entrees ($9.95-$12.95+ for dinner, $7.95+ for lunch) come with a marvelous lentil soup or a more-than-decent salad, with eight a la carte Salads ($3.95-$7.95) — a Spinach walnut, a Yogurt Salad and a Fattoush among them — additional. You can hardly go wrong with anything grilled, broiled, or skewered, which is the bulk of the menu. Vegetarian or not, I wouldn't shun the Vegetable Mussaka, a fine blend of zucchini, eggplant, spinach, carrots, banana squash and sweet potatoes in a bechamel sauce. A dreamy Baklava, and other desserts, are baked fresh daily.
1310 E. Apache (entrance on Dorsey, behind Oasis Cafe), Tempe, 480-731-9499. Fax 480-731-3002. www.cafeistanbulandmarket.com
LD, $4-$11, Closed Sun.
Cafe Sahara
The friendliness of the owners and staff makes you feel like part of the family — and this is one family everyone would want to be a part of. The lunch specials, like platters of Gyros, Chicken Tikka, Kafta Kebob and Beef, Spinach or Veggie Sunusek, at their bargain basement prices, are generous and delicious and include Hommos, Salad, and Pita as well. Or try a savory Pita Wrap or Kafta Kebob. The Sanbuseks, phyllo-wrapped triangles with zesty fillings, make great appetizers. Falafel, Stuffed Grape Leaves, Babaghanouj, Hommos, and Tabouli can all be gotten separately as starters, but a handsome portion of each is found on the Vegetarian Combination. The star of the show is the fabulous Lamb Kuzi, a gorgeous lamb shank marinated with a deft blend of herbs and spices and baked until it is so tender the only reason one might need a knife is to free the marrow from its bone entrapment. In the beverage department, the traditional Shinina, a refreshing blend of homemade yogurt mixed with water, is my drink of choice. If you are a Baklava lover, try their Chocolate rendition as well as the Pistachio. The Tiramisu, notwithstanding its western Mediterranean origins, is still quite credibly done by these skilled hands. I'm sure that you, too, will find this Sahara is no desert!
3641 E. Baseline Road, Suite O-100, Gilbert, 480-633-1217.
LD, $3-$4
Chaat Corner at Indian Plaza
Many of you are now familiar with Indian food, especially those dishes from the northern parts of India, but have you ever had Indian "street food?" Now, with this cafe concealed in the market at Indian Plaza, you can ... and really should. The short menu has a dozen items, and I'll bet you've not heard of one of them. Some have familiar words, but the results are far from recognizable. There are Bhel, Dahl, Pani and Sev Puris (and Puri Aloo, too); Papadi and Samosa Chaats; Idli Samber; Onion Pakura; Aloo and Methi Parathas; and, of course, Chole Bature. For dessert try a Kulfi (Pistachio Ice Cream Bar). We sampled a nice variety of five different ones, a sweet and a salty lassi (to drink) and came out a puny $22.64 lighter, while having to bring leftovers back to the office. The only problem is when asked which dish was what, I had to rely on "don't ask, don't tell!"
1874 E. Apache Blvd., 480-557-8800.
LD, $5-$11, Closed Mon.
Copper Kettle
Most probably this is the only restaurant in the Valley specializing solely in food from Pakistan, specifically the hotly disputed Kashmir section at the northern tip of the country. The food, noted for its fragrant spices and complex sauces, can be just as fierce as the fighting, if desired, or as tame as a lamb. The lunchtime all-you-can-eat extravaganza, with over a dozen dishes plus rice, Chapatti, salad fixings (including delectable lemon marinated mushrooms) and desserts, is a wonderful way to introduce yourself to many of the dishes on the menu without spending the corresponding fortune, and is available on Saturdays and Sundays as well. For dinner, the appetizers (Chutkharey) offered include Pakoras, coriander spiked, crunchy chicken and vegetable fritters; savory Samosas filled with minced vegetables and resembling crab cakes; and terrific cutlets of lentils and meat called Shami Kabobs. Additionally, there is Aloo Tikki, a sort of stew combining vegetables and cutlets of spiced mashed potatoes; and Tandoori Wings, hot from the oven in more ways than one (seasoned to your specs, of course). The specialty of the house is the Balti. On each table sits a filigree domed copper vessel — a copper kettle, if you will — which is a fancy chaffing dish. In it is a warming candle and a rim to hold a serving bowl chock full of chicken, lamb, shrimp or vegetables in a delightful, headily aromatic sauce. Don't miss the version with chicken and ginger and onions and, I would imagine, at least a thousand herbs and spices. Chicken Boti Sultani is a good starter dish for neophytes, with boneless breast chunks resting in a lovely lemon and garlic sauce. The B'a Kashmir Valley specialty, sports molded links of minced meat, garlic and onion seasoned with a lively, beautifully balanced combination of piquant spices. Nehari, a glorious dish of boneless beef shanks having been cooked overnight to fork tenderness, swim in a fragrant and zippy tasting elixir. Nimbu Pani, a freshly squeezed traditional lemon drink is your basic lemonade—good for putting out fires, if necessary. Salty Lasi, a tangy yogurt drink (or Sweet or Mango Lasi) is worth exploring. Chai, a milky, sweet hot tea, is perfect for having with dessert, especially with Shahi Tukra, a scrumptious blending of homemade bread soaked in sweetened condensed milk and topped with pistachios. It's amazing what a skilled hand can do with just a few simple ingredients!
1941 W. Guadalupe Road, #102 (S.E. corner of Dobson), Mesa, 480-456-4365. Fax 480-456-4484.
LD, $6-$16
Eden's Grill Inn
In this world there are breast guys and thigh guys, and when it comes to chicken (the kind with feathers [growing out of its skin]), I'm definitely the latter. And, if nothing else pleased me about Eden's (owned by Marcus and Nahren, I don't know who the devil Eden is), I'm ecstatic that they serve Chicken Kebabs made with boneless, skinless (actually, they could have left the skin on, and I would have been super ecstatic!) thigh meat. Incidentally, the breast is used in the Chicken Filet Kebab, if you insist on that drier, less tasty cut. But there is a lot more about this simple eatery that I adore. Either of their Potato Cakes (meat or vegetarian) is fabulous, and their Baba Ganoosh is head and shoulders above average. Even the lowly Lentil Soup, here with a touch of curry, is not so lowly anymore. In fact, most anything you've tried elsewhere will taste better here — especially if you're into Kebabs, as they have 11 scrumptious varieties. Want something a little different? You'll love the Broiled Catfish, cooked in lemon and herbs and a touch of red wine. This — and most other entrees — comes with delicious Basmati Rice and a tasty skewer of grilled sweet bell peppers, onions and tomatoes. For vegetarians they make a juicy Veggie Patty, plump Dolmeh, crispy Falafal, and a nice combo plate of all three. Be sure to save room for some of the most incredible Baklava this side of the Mediterranean. Thanks to Doug and David for turning me on to this one.
13843 N. Tatum Blvd., Suite 29 (NE corner at Thunderbird), Phoenix, 602-996-5149.
LD, $6-$15
Efes Turkish Cuisine
Istanbul is the only major city to span two continents (Europe and Asia), and is the Capitol of present-day Turkey. But, for over 600 years, as Constantinople, it was the heart of the Ottoman Empire, which ringed the Mediterranean from the Balkans almost all the way to the African side of the Straits of Gibraltar. So, it's no wonder that Turkish cuisine has absorbed some of the best of many styles of cookery. Especially noticeable is the Arabic influence from the Middle East. Many of the dishes served at Efes are practically identical to ones you are familiar with under different names, which I will put in parenthesis as we discuss them. Like the city of two continents, the restaurant space is divided by a central bar into the "American" side with its tables and chairs, while the opposing Turkish corner has metal tray topped low tables, upholstered stools and fat pillows. This is not a show of schizophrenia, but just a bow to the various tastes of their diners. Sampler or combination plates are a wonderful way to try several dishes of a foreign cuisine, and Efes has one of Cold Appetizers and another of Entree Sis Kebabs (Shish Kebabs). The former has ample portions of Hummus, Acili Ezme (a hot [beware!] and spicy mixture of bell and hot chili peppers, onions and parsley), Yaprak Sarma (Dolmades), Patlican Exme (Babaghanoush) and Patlican Soslu (fried eggplant and vegetables roasted in a tomato sauce — absolutely delicious), all garnished with Jalapeño slices and Black (but not Kalamata) Olives and served with a basket of pita bread. There's enough here for three or four to share as a starter, bringing the price down to three or four bucks each. Two Hot Appetizers, highly recommended, are the Arnavut Ciger (cubes of nicely seasoned calf's liver deep fried — a delectable dish I've not had elsewhere) and Ispanakli Börek (an excellent version of Spanakopita). When it comes to Entrees, Efes Mix combines practically every meat-on-a-skewer in the house. There are juicy and tender spears of Lamb cubes, Tavuk (Chicken breast), Adana Kebab (seasoned ground Lamb), Adana Chicken Kebab and Döner Kebab (Beef Gyros), served over triangles of soft and fluffy Pita with a couple of grilled tomatoes and jalapeños for color. Vegetarians have four solid choices, including a yummy meatless Stew, Türlu. Everyone can enjoy the desserts, from the Revani (great with the optional walnut topping) to the Firin Sütlac (baked Rice Pudding, best with cinnamon added) to the heavenly Baklava (I love both the Pistachio and the Chocolate varieties).
1701 E. Guadalupe Road, Tempe, 480-897-3017.
LD, $4-$12+
Flaming Kabob Cuisine
Khalil Al-Abbadi is no dummy. If you come into his relatively new Mesa eatery, for a mere $185.00 you can get enough Stuffed Lamb with Hommous and Salad to feed a tribe. Need something smaller? The $49.99 Family Banquet has more kabobs and sides than you can shake a skewer at. You say you're eating alone? Well, there's a whole menu of Sandwiches, Salads, Soups, Appetizers and Main Entrees of Middle Eastern persuasion, some of which you may be familiar with, others not. I loved the Shrimp Gallaya, Chicken with Garlic and Cilantro, and the Lamb Shank braised in Tomato Sauce. Their Rice Pudding and Baklava are both praiseworthy.
2252 E. Baseline Road; 480-813-6555; www.flamingkabob.com.
LD, $6-$13, SV
Flavors of India
The lineup of gleaming copper-domed serving dishes foretells the fine quality of the daily (including Sunday) buffet-style lunch, with Tandoori Chicken (this version with mountains of golden cooked onions) and Basmati Rice being the mainstays. The additional two meat and three vegetable curries are always different — and sometimes rather unique as well — so an introduction to many dishes can be quite economical. Additionally, the buffet includes Naan (an Indian-style bread quickly cooked on the sides of a tandoor oven), Raita and Chutney (relishes to add flavor), and two desserts. Among the buffet's rotating meat dishes is a fine version of a popular dish, Keema Mutter, mellow Tandoori Murg Masala and piquant Tandoori Chicken Kandhari (with masala). These are typical of the symphony of herbs and spices this kitchen employs in nearly every dish. All spices are hand-mixed. All curries are amalgams of many flavorings, ground for freshness and carefully balanced. There is no such thing as curry powder in this kitchen! And, as complexly flavored as these dishes are, none are very hot in the pepper sense of the word. (If, however, that is a problem for you, they will give you a sauce that handily solves it.) Flavors of India also makes all their own breads — 10 different kinds, with several having various stuffings as well — and milk products (the cheeses are fabulous, the ice creams are, well, a good place to just say "no, thank you." They serve many delicious but different non-meat curries and other vegetable dishes, like Egg Curry, creamy Aloo-Gobhi Masala, Aloo Mutter, Palak-Paneer featuring cubes of savory cheese swimming in a sea of creamed spinach, and Bondh Gobi, which greatly improves the reputation of the lowly cabbage. Another favorite, Shahi-Kofta, has cheese-stuffed veggie balls in a delightfully light and tasty sauce. The only dessert I found worth ordering off the menu is Gajar-Halwa, a carrot pudding with raisins and almonds, which can be terribly addicting. A most refreshing beverage is Punjabi Lassi, a homemade yogurt drink that comes sweetened, salted, or just plain.
4515 N. 16th St., Phoenix, 602-277-5546. Fax 602-277-1275.
LD, $7-$13
India Gate
No relation to Nannygate or Travelgate or Zippergate. The only thing scandalous about this eatery is the fine quality of the food. The decor is similar to most shopping center places of this genre, but the food far outshines the physical surroundings. Lunch buffets are de rigueur at eateries featuring tandoori cookery, and this one has a value-packed spread seven days a week. These are perfect vehicles for a somewhat comprehensive introduction to one of the world's most interesting cuisines. The menu here has a lot more breadth than the usual, with a particularly fine selection of vegetarian dishes that takes meatless tastes to majestic heights. Meat eaters have plenty of great choices, too, with a dozen lamb dishes (where else will you find Lamb Achari?), an equal amount of seafood selections, and even more chicken-based ones. Beef is even available, although I thought cows and their bodies were considered sacred. Anyway, since they're willing to prepare it, go for the delicious Karahi Beef Palak. Also, don't overlook the Biryanis and Tandooris, as well as the trio of stuff-yourself dinners that include everything from soup to candied fennel. Rice and bread come with the dinners, but must be ordered separately if you make up your own meal. The Basmati is a great standby, but try the Peas Pulao for a very pleasant change. An admirable selection of flavored and stuffed Naans could keep you content for many visits without duplication, however, Puri, Roti, Aloo Paratha and Bhatura are enticing enough to make converts out of the more adventurous. Even the beverage listing has some oddities, like Thandai, which could become one of your mainstays. Desserts, for the most part, are very sweet. Both the Mango and the Pistachio Ice Creams are tasty, and I particularly like their Gajar Halwa, a creamy carrot pudding with nuts and raisins.
6245 W. Chandler Blvd., Chandler, 480-705-5565. Fax 480-598-5174.
LD, $7-$12
Indian Delhi Palace
They finally built a palace to hold the Palace, and they know you will come, just as you did to the old place in the second-class strip shopping center, just a block away. The new Palace is huge, with an enlarged restaurant and buffet, several banquet rooms and another space for their new Sweets and Snacks Shoppe. Almost all local East Indian restaurants have a lunch buffet, but this 15 plus item spread is available seven days a week. The original, and still one of the best of the Indian places in town, there are many tasty dishes, which can be adjusted for your taste buds from mild to fiery. Their chefs do a fine job with lamb, offer many vegetarian dishes, and their dinner combinations are sure to elicit cries for doggy bags.
5104 E. McDowell Road, Phoenix, 602-244-8181.
BLD, $5-$10+
Juba
Mediterranean food is fairly easy to come by in this town, and Juba can hold its own when it comes to Falafel, Baba Gannoush, Tahini, Shawarma, Kebabs and the like. But I know of no other that serves cuisine of the Red Sea area, specifically Somalia. Bariis and Hillib, Sukhaar, Qutulaash and Pasta Saldatto and Hillib are various combinations of stews and pastas, including steak, lamb and roasted goat (don't knock it if you haven't tried it — it's delicious!), but not far out enough to make the average person squeamish. Some Somali and some Mediterranean are included in their lunch buffet, a good way to try several. Be sure to sample the Somali Iced Tea for a cool lift, and Baqlawa, Halwa de Dolche or Mishidoonyo for dessert.
5050 E. McDowell Road, Phoenix, 602-244-1206.
LD, $4-$10, closed Mon., SV
Kabob Palace
Not much to look at, this Plain Jane eatery puts out a rather limited menu ... of delectable dishes. Eggplant aficionados will give praise to one of the best tasting, ugliest looking Baba Ghanoushes ever assembled. The Shawarma, perfectly spiced, practically oozes delicious juices with each bite. Gyros and Kabobs of Chicken and Beef make up the meat of the menu, and the savory Falafel are cooked to ideal crunchiness without persevering on toward sawdust, as too often is the case.
7816 N. 27th Ave., Phoenix, 602-249-0022.
LD(late, until 2am), $4-$9, SV
King Tut Cafe
With a nice large patio out front, a gift store area, a giant screen TV continuously running an Arabic-programmed station (with Arabic subtitles), and a corner cozy platform with rugs, pillows and a mellow air perfect for a group of hookah smokers, this cafe is more than just a restaurant. Most of the customers who smoke bring their own pipes and buy the mixture of tobacco and fruit flavoring to fill them with, but even the equipment can be purchased in the gift store area. Their sweet, fruity aroma permeates the room. Salads, sandwiches (Falafel is a steal, or a juicy made-and-carved-on-the-premises Gyro for pennies more), and even a few egg dishes — anyone for Beid bel Basterma (Egyptian pastrami and scrambled eggs?) — make good lunch choices. Appetizers range from the Hommus Deluxe (with meat and pine nuts) to Gebna bel Tamatem (chopped salsa of tomatoes, onions, feta cheese and herbs, bound with olive oil and mint) to Mixed Pickles (a zillion of them). Fataver, Samboosa and Spinach Puffs, tasty pastries filled with seasoned beef, spinach or vegetables, are all worth trying. The large selection of vegetarian entrees makes it fun to mix and match for a full meal of side dishes. Of course no Middle Eastern diet would be complete without Sheesh Kebab. The lamb, beef and chicken variations are marinated before charbroiling, so they are very tender and full of flavor, as is the Kofta Kebab, with spicily seasoned ground beef formed into little sausage-like morsels on the skewers. If you like lamb, you should relish the Lamb Stew, where the essence from the meat is unmistakably imbued into the tangy gravy. A perfect ending to a fine meal would be a lovely not-too-sweet piece of Baklava, a kanaka of robust Arabic Coffee, and the paltry bill. Food served until 4am on weekends. For good food, fun, and a look at things Egyptian, King Tut certainly beats your mummy's cookin'!
1125 E. Apache, Tempe, 480-921-1670. Fax 480-921-0242.
LD, $7-$11, Closed Mon.
Lalibela Ethiopian Restaurant
Almost all dishes at this handsomely decorated restaurant, are stew-like — cubes of meat, fish or eggs with a piquant sauce — served with vegetables, lentils, or the like. Everything is eaten with your hands, scooped up in a crepe- or pancake-type bread called Injera. Any of the three combination plates make good intros to let you know what further to pursue to intrigue your palate. Alicha Sega, beef in spiced butter, onions and turmeric; and Tikil gomen, a stew of cabbage, carrots, and potatoes, intrigued mine the most. Allow an extra 10 minutes for difficult menu navigation/translations. Very comfortable, relaxed and foreign atmosphere.
849 W. University Drive, Tempe, 480-829-1939.
LD, $5-$12, Closed Sun., SV
Mediterranean House
This, one of my favorite Middle Eastern restaurants, has an Oriental chef knocking out some of the best and most authentic dishes in town. Dinners come with Lentil Soup or a Salad, and it's a flip of the coin which is better. Both are well above average. If you have a voracious appetite, order the Mediterranean Soup, a thick, spicy and full-flavored stew (it actually is available at lunch as an entree). All the Shish Kabob versions (chicken, steak, lamb, and shrimp) are of high quality ingredients, carefully prepared. If you like babaghanoush (an eggplant dip), you'll find a superb version here, either as a Mezze (Appetizer) or as part of a House Sample Platter with hummus and falafel balls, and a charbroiled lamb and a steak shish kebab, along with a salad and pita bread, at a very reasonable price. The Grecian Chicken, marinated in lemon juice, wine, garlic and spices, then charbroiled until crispy, is always a good contender against the Moroccan Chicken, an equally well-marinated breast topped with an herbed yogurt sauce and paired with fresh spinach and carrots and a charbroiled apple. Sometimes I have to use a three-sided coin when I also consider the Egyptian Chicken, a skillfully marinated breast dipped in sesame seeds and dusted with flour for a sensational crust. Not open for lunch on Saturdays.
1588 E. Bethany Home Rd., Phoenix, 602-248-8460. Fax 602-248-0618.
L, $4-$8, Closed Sun., SV
Middle Eastern Bakery & Deli
A valley landmark from well before the ethnic invasions, this small wonder is not only a bakery and deli, but a gift shop, grocery store, spice emporium and social club as well. The regulars (and there are many) know the staff and each other by name. Eavesdropping on some of the semi-public conversations is a fascinating way to pass the day. Actually, with only a few family-style tables, all communication is communal—so this is neither the place to plot a sinister action or propose to your intended. It is, however, a fun place to catch a tasty repast. Try the soup of the day or the Avgolemeno. You can't go wrong with either—ever! Of the pita sandwiches, the Tandoori Chicken is a unique standout with currants, pine nuts and a touch of curry. Another favorite is the delicate Mediterranean Eggplant, with Provolone, red bells and pine nuts. I often can't decide which of the Middle Eastern specialties I want, so it is rather fortunate that the Combo (with meat) or the Vegetarian Sampler plate has a bit of almost everything native that is offered. The Ouzi, baked phyllo stuffed with lamb and rice, is heavenly, and King Chicken, stuffed with a mixture of beef, onions, pine nuts, peas, and rice, is not to be missed. For dessert it is a toss-up between baklava, halvah, or one of the homemade pastries. All are tooth-aching sweet...but worth the pain. Smart people will stock up from the frozen section for future meals at home. Just about everything on the menu is available, and then some. For the more ambitious, there is a good selection of cook books and all the raw materials you could ever need to put on a feast worthy of a sultan.
3052 N. 16th St., Phoenix, 602-277-4927.
LD, $5-$15+
Persian Garden Cafe
Having dined at the Persian Garden makes you feel as if you've just been through a relaxing meditation session, only you don't feel hungry! Nothing here is simple to prepare, yet nothing here tastes "fancy." Splurge your tastebuds with dishes like Merza Farangee, Tofu Portabella Mushroom and Angel Hair Pasta Shrimp, with a side of "Cugurt." Warning, this place can be addictive!
1335 W. Thomas Rd., Phoenix, 602-263-1915.
LD, $4-$7, SV
Phoenicia Café
In the shadow of ASU there are many Middle Eastern restaurants, each from a different country or region, each treating the cuisine in its own mini-ethnic way. This eatery takes its culinary cues from ancient Palestine and Syria, the land of Canaan. Here you will find an unusual dish called Brika, which is akin to a crispy folded eggroll, but its contents are instead a tasty amalgam of tuna, eggs, parsley, and mashed potatoes. One of these and an order of Tabbouli could make a fine meal for only a five-spot. A Tunisian Salad uses olive oil and lemon juice to bind fresh tomatoes with lettuce, olives, onions, eggs, and tuna, for a light and healthy small meal. For the larger, more carnivorous appetite, Couscous Phoenicia does not use the restaurant's moniker in vain. Upon a bed of yellow semolina rests a nest of steamed vegetables and a flavorful, tender lamb shank, crowned with a very tasty Tunisian sauce. I like to wash it all down with a nice cup of Shay (a regional tea). Phoenicia's adjoining sister business, Salam's Market, has the ingredients for all these and more, if you want to try your own hand at Middle Eastern cookery.
616 S. Forest Ave. (E. of Mill at 7th St.), Tempe, 480-967-8009.
BLD, $4-$7
Pita Jungle
Funky and spunky atmosphere, but the food will knock your socks off! From Ratatouille Omelet and Apple Nut Crepes for breakfast to Herbs & Spices Pizza and Spicy Chicken Wrap for lunch to the Mediterranean Platter and Macro Platter for dinner, the range is incredible.
1250 E Apache Blvd., Tempe, 480-804-0234. Fax 480-804-0230.
LD, $5-$12, closed Mon.
Sabuddy Israeli Restaurant
A wonderful little mom-and-pop style restaurant where you can not only find Middle Eastern foods, but a smattering of European, Asian, and North African as well. Flavorful dishes include Jerusalem Meatballs, Chicken and Eggplant, Grilled Salmon, as well as the Russian Potato Salad appetizer. Excellent Baklava, too.
6949 E.Shea Blvd., #10, Scottsdale, 480-348-2333. www.sabuddyrestaurant.com.
LD, $11-$20+
Scottsdale Kebab
As its name proclaims, this Scottsdale addition features kebabs of several varieties. If you favor chicken, you can have your skewers filled with breast meat, thigh meat, or tenders. Beef lovers will like the grilled marinated beef tenderloin Barg Kebab or the juicy ground beef Koobideh Kebab with lots of minced onions and spices. The more typical Beef Shish Kebab here has chunks of green peppers, onions, tomatoes, and marinated beef. The Gyros is quite tasty for a beef only version, but the more unusual stews caught my eye (and taste buds). Gheimeh combines beef and onions with yellow split peas and tomato sauce, topped with fries! Gheimeh Bademjan adds eggplant to the above, while Ghormeh Sabzy cooks the steer meat with kidney beans, parsley, green onions, and dried lime. There is a vegetarian alternative for those who like Dolmeh: a dozen stuffed grape leaf packets, complete with a salad and pita bread. A half-dozen appetizers, a hearty lentil soup, and a couple of side-type salads complete the listing. Linens and a friendly staff make up for a slow kitchen.
4233 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-429-6878.
LD, $4-$8, SV, closed Sun.
Shish Kebab House
Take a stab at anything that comes on a skewer (my favorite is called Koobideh Kebab, a foot-long juicy grilled beef patty) — you can't go wrong with the Greek or Turkish food here. Also, indulge in dishes like Barg and Ghormeh Sabzy (marinated tenderloin and an intricate beef stew); the Greek Salad is awesome, and don't forget to add simple sides such as a grilled tomato. The atmosphere might be plain, but the food is all well seasoned and perfectly prepared. Even something as simple as the rice is fragrant and delicious. Wash it all down with Dough, a tangy yogurt drink that is practically addicting. And at these prices, you easily can splurge on some heavenly Baklava.
5039 W. Olive (Dunlap becomes Olive in Glendale), Glendale, 623-937-8757.
LD, $6-$13
Star of India
As far as East Indian restaurants go, this one is the star of Ahwatukee. However, we must admit, it is the only East Indian restaurant in Ahwatukee. The owner used to be the manager at India Palace (the one on 7th Street at Bell Rd.), and finally opened up his first restaurant at the opposite end of the Valley. There are some other differences, too, far greater than the distance between the two: the Star, although done in good taste, lacks the pizzazz (we miss the murals and art works) of the other; the service needs more seasoning; and the lunch buffet is miles — no, light years — behind his predecessor. So, with all this, why would I be writing about this eatery? Because the food is good, there is much potential for positive changes, and it's the only one in the area. As I said, skip the buffet. The selection is small and mostly boring compared to others in town. Do not skip the Shahjahani Biryani (chicken with nuts and eggs), Adraki Champ (lamb ribs that have been marinated in homemade yogurt and spices, then cooked in a clay oven), or the Tandoori Fish (or Shrimp) Masala (cooked in a butter sauce) however, even if it takes three trips. You probably will want to take a couple more trips to sample the Bengan Bartha (eggplant with green peas, onions and tomatoes) and Malai Kofta (vegetable and cheese dumplings cooked in a delicious sauce). They might even make a (one night stand) vegetarian out of you.
4025 E. Chandler Blvd., Suite 14, Phoenix (Ahwatukee), 480-706-1700.
LD, $4-$7, Closed Sun.
Super Gyros
Don't let the name fool you, this is not a chain. Everything is homemade — and with aplomb. From the unique Broccoli Pie to plump Stuffed Grape Leaves, Stuffed Cabbage, Falafel, Kibbeh, Tabouli, Hummus and Babaghanouj, you'll be delightfully surprised. Be certain to finish with Namoura or Kahi. They're both fabulous!
340 W. University Drive (at Country Club), Mesa, 480-844-1111.
LD, $6-$13
Taste of India
Open for lunch and dinner, this is one of the few Indian restaurants that not only has many windows, but keeps them uncovered so that one can tell whether it's day or night — and the trees and the mountains and the sky can be a part of the dining experience. At the lunch hour there is a buffet that is perfect for trying new dishes (or trying a new cuisine if you're not familiar with Indian cooking). Most of the food is consistently good here, but certain items stand out. Try the Mulligatawny Soup and a Lamb Samosa for starters. Then go on to the Tandoori Garlic Shrimp; Chicken Muglai (in a thick sauce with cream and eggs); Halibut Masala (baked in a tandoori oven with onions, tomatoes and peppers); Lamb Kashmiry (in a creamy sauce with fruit and nuts); or vegetable balls with cheese in a creamy sauce, Malai Lokta. Scoop it up with Kabli Naan (tandoori bread with nuts and raisins), and wash it all down with a Mango Lassi, and do save a little room for the Ras Malai (homemade cheesecake with a special cream sauce). You might say that Taste of India is the cream of the Indian crop.
1609 East Bell Road, #B-4, Phoenix, 602-788-3190.
LD, $6-$11, closed Mon.
Tasty Kabob
For many years this reliable little Persian cafe has been quietly sitting at the corner of Apache and Dorsey in Tempe, putting out excellent food at quite reasonable prices. It's hard to believe that two other Middle Eastern restaurants would dare encroach on its territory, yet both Pita Jungle and Cafe Istanbul have become its bookends. And, you know what? All three have somewhat different things to offer, and each is first-rate. Tasty Kabob, as its name portends, serves primo shish kabobs. I favor their Lamb, Koobideh (ground beef and onions) and Chelo Barg (marinated Filet Mignon), as well as their lovely Vegetarian (also appreciated by carnivores). Start with the Combo #2, and you've got a taste of practically all the appetizers: Hummus, Stuffed Grape Leaves, Eggplant Borany (a variation of Baba Ghanough) and Tabooli, along with tomato, cheese and cucumber. Not too many places in town serve Fesenjan, but when it's available here, this dish of meatballs (you can also get it with chicken) and cooked walnuts in a pomegranate sauce is a real winner. Other Daily Dishes usually offered include Ghelmeh Bademjan (fried eggplant and cooked beef with yellow split peas in a tangy tomato sauce) and Baghala Polo (lamb shank served with rice mixed with lima beans and dill weed). Actually, if I had to pick the one item that this eatery does best, I would say it's the fantastic rice they serve. That alone is worth the trip. Also, the Persian Soup is a must, and I find the House Yogurt Soda (salted, of course) to be addicting.
1250 E. Apache Blvd., #116, Tempe, 480-966-0260.
LD, $4-$6+, closed Sun.
Tina's Ethiopian Cafe
Gracious, gregarious, and energetic, Tina Hildebrand runs her restaurant as if she were serving guests in her home. She is a one-woman enterprise, playing chef, waitress, hostess and chief bottle-washer with equal composure. You must start with Tina's Famous House Salad, and go from there with whatever is available that day. We adored Yedoro Watt, Beef Tibbs and the Watt Combination Special with Shiro, Yemiser, Kik, Spinach and Yedoro. We highly suggest you call before you go — you never know with this personal an operation.
479 N. Arizona Ave., Chandler, 480-917-3088. www.tinasethiopiancafe.com.
(late)D, $5-$9+, SV
Urban Cafe
By the time owner/chef Koko Hosn reclaimed his pride and joy, the tiny restaurant had slipped down quite a few notches. A renovation got him a lot more room, but at a much higher cost than he had expected. So, when he reopened the larger and more modern Urban Cafe, the formerly rock bottom prices got nudged up a little bit. I still love the Lemon Garlic Chicken and the Veggie Pasta salads, each tossed in a tangy vinaigrette; and the hand sliced vertical-rotisseried Lamb Gyro wrap is juicy and delicious. There are a few sandwiches and many vegetarian offerings on the menu. An appetizer of deep fried cauliflower with tahini sauce is an incredible winner, and eggplant lovers will drool over the charbroiled black beauty with hummus and veggies tucked into a pita round for just a little bit more. Big spenders here are the ones that pop a ten-spot for a mahogany-colored crisp-skinned half-chicken in a garlic sauce with a hearty soup (or salad), rice, hummus and pita bread. Hookahs are available in several aromatic flavors.
1212 E. Apache Blvd., Tempe. 480-968-8888. Fax 480-968-3709.
