LD, $4-$14
Acapulco Bay Co.
On a tranquil tree-shaded patio (okay, so the trees are papier mâché and the patio is indoors and air conditioned), the Jiminez family will be happy to serve you some very well crafted Mexican seafood dishes. And, believe me, you will be very happy to have added this eatery to your list of favorites. The Ceviche Tostada, fresh and briny as an ocean breeze, is a steal, while Octopus, tender as a baby's cheek, comes in a lovely wine sauce. Crab Chili Relleno, Seafood Paella, Azteca Shrimp (a very dramatic as well as tasty dish), and Stuffed Fish Fillet are highly recommended. Landlubbers have a smaller but equally well-prepared repertoire to choose from. And the rich sweet Flan must have been priced many, many years ago.
3030 N. 68th St., Scottsdale, 480-429-1990.
BL(early)D, $4-$6, closed Sunday, SV
Albuquerque Tortilla Company
New Mexicans, as a rule, like their food hot and spicy. Since Albuquerque, its largest city, lies squarely in the center of the state, it would be a pretty sure bet that the tamales coming out of Albuquerque Tortilla Company would be, well, hot and spicy. At least the Pork rendition is, with plenty of chile to add a bright red hue to both the stuffing and the somewhat porous jacket of this average sized pouch. The Chicken Tamale, on the other hand, is sans chile altogether. The thin masa skin is much moister, greenish-tan in color, and less competition for the ardently flavorful chicken filling. Sopaipillas should be served hot out of the frypot. They're great if you can eat them right away, but if you're doing carryout, you're probably wiser getting your meat or beans stuffed into a Burrito. Best bets for fillings are Carnitas or Carne Adovada. Sour Cream Enchiladas are hard to find, and these are way above par. Ditto for the Posole. Raspberry, Lemon and about 15 other Empañadas are sweet enough to cool of your burning tongue. Don't forget: in New Mexican food, the green sauce is hotter than the red. Get your Saturday order in early, 'cause they close even a half-hour earlier than their usual 5:30pm.
1507 W. Hatcher, Phoenix, 602-371-8848. Fax 602-371-0261.
LD, $6-$14
Arriba Mexican Grill
Probably one of the most authentic Sonoran of the Gringo Mexican places in town, Arriba has been the darling of the critics and neophytes alike. With solidly good food and a fun tin-and-tile decor, this is the perfect kind of place to impress Aunt Martha from Minnesota. But hatch your plan carefully, because if you forget to tell Aunt Martha to order her dish very mild (the staff will cheerfully adjust the degree of heat to your specifications), the Hatch chilies used here can be pretty explosive! Be aware that the prime lunch and dinner hours are bound to be crowded, so plan accordingly. Some favorites are Queso Fundido (flaming jack cheese with jalapeños, onions, tomatoes and housemade chorizo), Pozole (a pork and hominy stew with red onions, cabbage and cilantro), Stuffed Sopapillas (with charro beans and carne adobada), Seafood Enchiladas, Steak Tampico (topped with Hatch chili and queso fundido) and any of the Fajitas dishes (steak, chicken, shrimp or veggie). There are even a few "lite" selections.
1812 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-265-9112.
LD, $5-$15
Asadero Hermosillo
You don't have to go all the way down to Hermosillo to get great asado — but when you finally get to 35th Avenue, just north of Buckeye Rd., you might feel like old Mexico is just around the corner. Grilled meats are the specialty of this rather large restaurant, done out in the colorful vernacular of Mexican finery. Bring a group and try the Parrillada ($20.00) of three meats (choose from beef, pork, chicken, beef ribs and baby calf tripe) and vegetables, charred to a turn and served in a wrought iron skillet, along with guacamole, cucumbers, red onions, pico de gallo, crisp radishes and hearty corn or flour tortillas. For dining duos there is an Ordenes ($12.00) with only one meat and less of everything, and solos are not left out in the cold with the Media Orden ($7.00). On the seafood side, prices are higher, but there is no Mariscos special for the patron winging it alone. Indulge in the Aguas Frescas, which are super for cooling off chili-incinerated mouths. Service 'til 1am on Thursdays through Saturdays.
1114 S. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-353-1996.
BLD, $3-$10
Asadero Norte de Sonora
If you like your south-of-the-border cooking al carbon (and who doesn't like freshly grilled food?), this could be your hangout. Yes, they also have Tacos, Tortas and Burros, but you can get those at your local Denny's, for heaven's sake. And don't worry about spending a lot of pesos, either. Here a Half Grilled Chicken, which comes with a bowl of charro beans and a platter of crisp vegetables (cucumbers, radishes and purple onions), salsa, freshly made chunky guacamole and tart lime halves for squeezing over your meat and the accompanying grilled bulbous green onions, peppers and tomatoes, will give you change from a five-spot. Oh, and of course there are tortillas — corn or flour, your choice. Half orders of Beef Ribs (a little tough, but quite tasty), Grilled Steak or Tripe (done very well here, when they have it — which isn't always), also come loaded with the above sides, for just a couple of bucks more. Then comes the Cadillac — no, the Trifecta — of the grills: the Parrillada. You choose three meats from a list that includes Grilled Steak, Chicken, Tripe, Ribs, Pastor (Pork), Barbecue and Tongue, and get all the aforementioned goodies as well. Half orders serve two to three at less than ten dollars total, full orders still give you two Lincolns back from a Jackson, and could easily sate five or six healthy eaters. Tamarindo, Jamaica, Piña, Horchata and a small selection of Mexican sodas are usually available to wash down your meal in style. Late dining is a plus, with closing at midnight on weekends.
122 N. 16th St., Phoenix, 602-253-4010.
LD, $6-$20+
Asi Es La Vida (Such Is Life)
Now using its Spanish appellation, this place makes almost all the other "Mexican" restaurants pale by comparison. Holding only a dozen small tables, getting in can be tricky at best, unless you opt for really early or really late. If that's the only way you can get in, do it! The food alone is worth it, but the atmosphere at night is as romantic as anywhere you will find in The Valley, and they have a duo that plays guitar to make your heart sing. It's hard to recommend only a few selections, as every dish I have tried is absolutely top notch. However, here are a few of my very favorites. Try the Crema de Cilantro "A unique soup from the Mayan era." Unless you just can't stand that assertive herb, you'll really love this unusual potage. The Chilaquiles are outstanding (I like the pork ones best), as are the Chorizo Sincronizadas, both served only at lunch. After sundown, a good starter is the Crepas de Cameron (shrimp crepes) under a mantle of a rich Chardonnay cream sauce. Continue with a Guisado Combo (two of their famous stews, such as Cochinita Pibil [Yucatan-style pork simmered in orange Achiote sauce with sweet red onions] and Mole Poblano [chicken in a mysterious dark glaze with chocolate and chilies and other goodies], since it's too hard to choose only one.) Or, if in a meat mood, munch on the Filete Asi Es La Vida (Such is Life), a butter-tender filet topped with poblano peppers, onions, garlic and melted cheeses) or the Enrollado de Res (a sirloin roulade stuffed with spinach, bacon and three cheeses, first roasted, then topped with a mouth-watering chipotle tomato cream sauce). Want more seafood? You'll adore the Camaron al Mojo de Ajo, gorgeous butterflied shrimp baked in a garlicky white wine sauce. Three mouthwatering salsas add your personal touch to any of the dishes: a searing Chipotle with chocolate overtones, a mild fresh-tasting Pico de Gallo, and a piquant Tomatillo that hints at tangy lemon. For dessert, a cup of coffee, a glass of cognac and a Napolitano will end (or begin) the evening on a very romantic note.
3602 N. 24th St., Phoenix, 602-952-1255.
LD, $10-$18+, closed Mon.
Barrio Cafe
If this is what folks eat in the barrio, why would they want to go anywhere else? Buy some art from their current showing, sit back and relax with a Margarita, then taste the likes of Chef Silvana Salcido's Crepa de Espinacas, Cochinita Pibíl, Pato en Tamarindo, Filete Mignon a la Costa or Tamal de la Huasteca, while sampling partner Wendy Gruber's hospitality. Afterwards, fight among yourselves over the Goat's Milk Caramel Stuffed Crepes with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream ... unless, of course, you get more than one!
2814 N. 16th St., Phoenix, 602-636-0240, www.barriocafe.com
BLD, $5-$10
Cafe Latino
I don't know how Lenore Trevino does it, but I do know she does it (cooking, and all the other things a small restaurant owner has to do) seven days a week, from 7:30 in the am until 9:30 in the pm. If you believe in the saying that there's no rest for the wicked, she must be intolerably so. When does she ever sleep? The results of all this labor are pretty good, as you can prove to yourself over Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner and even a mid-day buffet on weekends that holds over 15 regional Central and South American Dishes. Enjoy plates of Pollo a la Crema Estilo Hondureño, Lengua en Salsa, Bistec de Pollo con Arroz y Frijoles y Ensalada Fresca, along with Tajada, Repollo and Russian Salad Guatamalan Style (how did the Russian part slip in there?). If you're too full for dessert, she has terrific baked goods to go.
4812 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-230-9115.
L, $4-$7
Cantina Del Oeste
Tucked away in the back of Bischoff's Shades of the West, a fabulous potpourri of jewelry, leather goods, clothing, cookbooks, Mexican crockery, artifacts and furniture — much of it handmade south of the border — is one of Scottsdale's worst kept secrets, the tiny Cantina Del Oeste serving excellent Sonoran fare. How so many people have found — and routinely habituate — this place is beyond me, although you can, while walking down Brown Avenue, catch a whiff of the tantalizing aromas of the food being prepared. Follow your nose for homemade goodies such as Sopes, Tamales, Quesadillas and Huevos Rancheros, along with the requisite Tacos, Enchiladas, Chimichangas and Tostadas. Daily specials add hard to find Chilaquiles (M), Albondigas (T), Posole and Carnitas (W), Posole, Fajitas and Chicken Mole (Th), Chili Rellenos and Beef Stew (F), Posole and Chili Rellenos (S) and Chicken Rice Soup on Domingo. A good selection of imported bottled beverages.
7247 Main St. (corner Brown Ave.), Scottsdale, 480-945-3289. Fax 480-945-3583.
BLD, $4-$10, closed Sun., SV
Casita del Mar
If you like good Mexican seafood, at seashore prices — and think you would enjoy Mexican karaoke —this is the place for you. Clean, but not fancy, this cafe is a joy to dine at. Not only is the food far superior to the average, but the kitchen staff has such a good time singing (karaoke-style, along with the radio) while preparing it, that it seems to taste even better. The menu is divided in half, with seafood and landfood getting equal space, and a separate breakfast menu for AMs. A half-chicken Mole style, in a rich and complex sauce along with nutty tasting rice and creamy refries topped with tangy crumbled white cheese and a side of hot tortillas, is high in flavor and amazingly low in price. Their Pozole, loaded with pork and hominy, has a little kick without getting too gut-wrenching hot. There are three renditions of Moleajetes served here. I chose the Lengua (Tongue) in Green Sauce, a molten lagoon of gooey, stringy melted cheeses and cubed deftly spiced tongue, served in a footed stone-like bowl (normally used as a mortar), which kept everything bubbling (i.e., mouth burning) hot for an interminably long time. This is one dish you will enjoy much more if eaten slowly, so don't order it if you're in a hurry. Also, they have a delightful Chile Relleno, a great Green Corn Tamal(e), and a delicious fat Sope. On the Mar side, try the Camarones Veracruzanos, Mojo de Ajo, or Fajitas, all cooked in the shell to enhance their taste. The Drown Shrimp (Ahogados) are sweet and zippy on their bed of cucumbers, and the Campechana are so fresh you'd have though they were plucked from the sea and dropped into their large ice cream sundae-style glassful of chilled tomato-based broth. It's kind of like having a private tide pool — and a shellfish monger to clean and shell them. Stews are popular here, too, with beef, chicken, goat, shrimp and fish versions all being quite credible. Perhaps the most unusual dish is Cahuamanta. a lightly curried, shredded fish dish. It was sensational. And don't miss the Flan for dessert.
1627 N. 24th St., Phoenix, 602-225-2925.
BLD, $4-$8, SV
Chuy's Mesquite Broiler
Although this is part of a somewhat large chain, the food is so good, and the atmosphere is such fun, that I must include it. With trashy Rocky Point decor and a great patio for almost year round use, this eatery has a lot of appeal, especially for kids. Whoever thinks Mexicans start their day off with lunch hasn't had Chuy's Beef Tri-Tip Breakfast Burrito or the Famous Fajita and Eggs. If anything, this restaurant is noted for the marinated Grilled Chicken, which it has managed to certify as "heart healthy" (even with no mention of the crisp and tasty skin), and claims as "Best of Phoenix 1998." However, the other grilled items, Snapper, Whitefish, Halibut, and Mesquite Shrimp are wonderful as well. The complete meal includes addictive no lard Whole Pinto Beans, Rice, Cabbage Salad (actually a delicious slaw), and Corn Tortillas. If you're putting together a piecemeal meal, the Mesquite Broiled Shrimp Soft Taco is a terrific pivot point with its large flour tortilla filled to overflowing with cabbage and shrimp with a lip-smackin' sauce. On a diet? Not to worry, the grilled shrimp or award winning fish salad comes to the (un-diet tasting) rescue.
1546 W. Bell Road, Phoenix, 602-504-9682. Fax 602-504-9706.
LD, $6-$4+, closed Sun.
Cisco's Backyard Grill
Cisco's Backyard might not be right in your backyard, but this colorful South of the Border/North of the Border place with the devilish address has lots of good grub, some of it at yesterday's prices. Go for the Sopes, Carne Asada and Chorizo con Papas Burritos, followed by a nice Flan to pursue their Mexican personality, or have some good ol' American BBQ Baby Back Ribs, Pork Rib Chops, a tasty T-Bone or a value pound of Beef Tips, with an order of Grilled Mushrooms & Onions ($2) di rigueur.
6666 W. Peoria Ave.; 623-487-5018. www.ciscosgrill.com.
LD, $7-$20+
Coyoacán Steak House
Coyoacán means coyote, and if you go just a little farther south, you're likely to encounter one in the Mountain Park that holds all those giant radio and TV antennas. This handsomely decorated establishment (try to sit facing the splendid IMAX proportioned Aztec mural) is the brainchild of Juan Sanchez and Moises Treves (remember the original Such as Life restaurant?), but now specializing in fine quality Steaks and Chops — with a South of the Border twist — at dinnertime. For lunch try the Chilaquiles, a traditional breakfast (hangover remedy), here topped with grilled top sirloin, chicken or pork loin, for a really hearty meal. The same choice of meats is also advocated in a Mexico City style sandwich called Pepitos, but I suggest you start with one of their terrific Appetizers. Both the Coyoacán Stuffed Poblano Peppers (with shrimp, Chihuahua cheese and roasted garlic) and the Seafood Spanish Style Salad (calamari, shrimp, octopus, bell peppers, onions, olive oil, wine vinegar and garlic bread) will knock your socks off — from the taste, not the heat. Another starter could be the simply titled Chicken Soup: shredded chicken, avocado, onion and boiled egg in a light and fragrant broth. Dinner Appetizers include Nopal Hidalgo (grilled prickly pear pads, melted yellow cheese and mild chorizo) and Coyoacán baby Back Ribs (grilled with a pasilla pepper marinade and sauce). Such is Life fans will be thrilled that the illustrious Cream of Black Bean Soup is on the coyote's menu. Other than the Angus Beef Steaks (topped with Roquefort, Chipotle or Corn Melange Pepper, I would highly recommend either of their Guisados. I sampled the (chicken) Mole Poblano and thought the sauce to be one of the best I've had outside of Mexico. My companion fell in love with her Lamb Chops, aglow with a delicious pasilla pepper and honey sauce. By the way, our entrees were served with five unique side dishes and six distinctive salsas, ranging from mild to majorly searing, for customizing. Be sure to have a Dessert, especially if their crepes are on the recited menu.
9014 S. Central Ave. (south of Los Dos Molinos), Phoenix, 602-323-9010.
BLD, $5-$12
El Malecon Mariscos
This venture for Ebelia and Pedro Cruz started slowly, but after the word is out the crowds really flockg here. Breakfasts with chorizo, machaca and the like are quite satisfying. The seafood — their specialty — is fresh tasting and especially refreshing in a cocktail (the small version ringing in at a mere pittance). There are several Stews worth exploring, as well as a number of Combinations. Some English translations are on the menu, but don't depend on the wait staff for additional info, as very little of anything but Spanish is spoken here, no matter how good their intentions. The Shrimp al Molcajete is a spectacular dish, coming in a superheated, tripod footed bowl made out of some volcanic material. Inside, and virtually erupting in a stream of steam and bubbles, is a gigantic mound of shrimp in a delicious sauce with tomatoes, onions and jalapeños. There are many more such adventures to try.
3801 W. Indian School Road., Phoenix, 602-278-6143.
LD, $3-$6, SV
El Rinconcito DF
This may be a tiny shack, but the food is big on flavor. Lots of folks do take out, although they do have a couple of tables outside. Featuring Tacos, Burros, Tostadas and Sandwiches, you can get old standards like Pollo and Carne Asada (chicken, beef), or go for something a little more exotic like Suadero or Pierna (flank steak, pork leg), or go to such extremes as Cabeza or Pata (head, foot). In the middle are Tripo (tripe) and Tinga (chicken with chipotle sauce) and Milaneza (breaded cutlet). Almost everyone knows Chorizo (spicy sausage), but how many of you have tried another sausage called Salchicha? You can here. On weekends only you can get Barbacoa de Borrego (barbecued goat), Menudo (tripe) and Posole (pork soup with hominy). Wash it all down with a true fruit Aqua Fresca (ade) or a Soda Mexicana.
8901 N. 12th St., Phoenix, 602-943-5933.
LD, $4-$10, Closed Mon., SV
Eliana's Restaurant
Billed as the only authentic home cooking from El Salvador (in the Valley), this bright and cheery cafe is truly a loving hands at home, mom-and-pop enterprise. The hanging pothos plants are even given personal attention, as their tentacles reach around the room, sometimes even invading the diner's private space. The appetizers are so reasonably priced they invite you to experiment. The Platano Frito con Crema y Frijoles (fried plantain with sour cream and beans) also can be a dessert with whipped or ice cream subbing for the sour. Full of robust flavors, the Pasteles Salvadoreños de Carne (meat pies) and the Pupusas (tortillas stuffed with pork, cheese, bell peppers and refried beans) seemed a little on the greasy side. However, the Tamals (tamales of chicken with vegetables) were splendid--for a mere $1.25 each! For the main course my favorite is the Arroz a la Valenciana, kind of like an arroz con pollo with shrimp. Meat lovers will have no regrets with the Carne Asada con Chimol (a steak, broiled Salvadorian style, with a very tasty--but unusual--sauce). Try one of the many authentic drinks: Orchata, Tamarindo, Ensalada and Te Frio will all refresh your palate.
1627 N. 24th St., Phoenix, 602-225-2925.
LD, $6-$10
Francisco's Pueblo Cafe
Yes, it's Mexican, but not your usual hit-them-over-the-head heavy-sauced Sonoran style. Each dish here seems individually crafted with a pride not often found in south-of-the-border places. In the Tortilla Soup, for instance, you can taste all the parts without them muddying each other up. Homecooked chunks of white meat chicken, lovely crisp tortilla strips, fresh carrots, tomatoes, zucchini and other veggies in a chicken broth topped with avocado and cheese. The Pork Carnitas, Chonita's Gorditas, Enchiladas del Mar, Tacos de la Playa and the Pueblo Chimi are prime examples of over-the-top Mexican cuisine. Even the sides of Charro Beans and Fideo are far-and-away superior to most. Have an order of Churros stuffed with caramel or Andrea's Pastel Especial (a warm fruit cocktail cake [!] soaked with tres leche sauce and topped with real whipped cream), and you'll be humming all the way home.
393 W. Warner Road; 480-786-0739.
LD, $6-$20+
Havana Café
This charming cafe gives you rock solid value and an abundance of flavors that are different and universally satisfying at the same time. With a good sized patio for fair weather, a very friendly and helpful staff (still headed by BJ Hernandez), and a cozy but handsome room for a leisurely repast, this is a super place to take someone you want to get to know better. No matter what you choose to eat here, you won't be disappointed. There is a nice selection of Appetizers (tapas), although I sometimes laze out and share the Cuban Sampler with a friend (or sometimes several friends). It highlights six of the most popular small plates, giving a varied sampling for a reasonable price. Next will be a beautiful bowl of Black Bean Soup, the national soup of Cuba — perhaps even the national dish of Cuba — with an Escabeche (a spicy tuna ceviche with peppers, onions, orange segments, avocado slivers and green olives) to balance. More often than not, I'm a sucker for the Picadillo. This is a montage of ground beef with sofrito, cubed potatoes, green olives, pimentos, and capers, served with black beans and rice. But, they also do a wonderful Arroz con Pollo in a giant bowl, and the Pierna de Puerco Asada (leg of pork in a sour orange, lime and garlic glaze) is to die for. Desserts are all homemade, and if you still have room, the Marquesa is the Achilles heel of chocoholics!
4225 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-952-1991.
BLD, $4-$7, SV
La Canasta
This small cafe can get rather crowded, especially on Sundays when the Mariachis enliven the dining room. But don't think that this is a tourist trap — the food and the patrons are muy authentico. If the day is a little nippy (and, believe it or not, that day will come), a hearty bowl of Cocido might be just what the doctor ordered. The kitchen here does a fine job with Carnitas, and their Machaca and Egg Burrito is deliciously filling. Popular, and for good reason, is the Taquitos de Puerco, and you can't go wrong with either the Red Beef or Green Corn Tamales. There are several good ways to cool your taste buds back down to normal if you have overdone the hot sauce: Honey Sopaipillas, Flan, or Fried Ice Cream being three of the most palatable.
723 S. 7th Ave., Phoenix. 602-254-7295.
(early)BL(early)D, $4-$8+
La Canasta Capitolo
There's a mythical (we wish) place under a giant copper dome where 90 dwarfs are mischievously at play. Go there, and you're bound to get heartburn. But, just a few blocks away, a small copper dome announces La Canasta Capitolio, a whole other story. Here, in the cute country Mexican restaurant, you can find such Sonoran goodies as Green Corn Tamales, Machaca con Huevos, Red or White Menudo, Carne Asada, Shrimp Fajitas and Pollo chimichangas. Try their homemade Pork Chile, it's great. They take their breakfasts seriously here (they open at 6am, 7 on weekends), and have some great combos. The lunch selections also include a few soups (tasty Albondigas), Salads, and most of the usual south-of-the-border stuff. End your adventure with a Cream Cheese Chimichanga with Apple Topping. You'll take the little copper dome over the big one anyway! Please note that they close at 3pm on weekends.
1733 W. Van Buren, Phoenix, 602-252-3269.
LD, $4-$6
La Cocina at Phoenix Farms Market
Whenever you're in the market for authentic Sonoran fare, think about this one. Yes, it's all self-serve, and you probably will end up going to several stands to put together a super meal, but it will be tasty, fast, and whatever you call less than inexpensive. There are briny seafood cocktails to start off with, a bakery for fresh-from-the-oven breads (and cakes, cookies, etc. for dessert), a BBQ stand for chicken, ribs and even crunchy chicharónnes, a steam table where helpful señoritas will assemble tacos, burritos, tortas and platas of your favorite meat from carne asada to carnitas (or my favorites, from lengua in green sauce to buche de puerco). Cool off with a natural fruit agua fresca such as lemon, orange, cantelope, papaya, watermelon, pineapple, jamaica, tamarind or horchata (a delicious rice drink). And, for a change, you'll get to keep lots of change.
3253 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-241-6292.
LD, $4-$7
La Fuente
This westside storefront is, perhaps, the Mexican answer to Mary Coyle. Specializing in freshly made whole fruit ices (Raspados), they also have Jugos (juices) and Licuados (milk- or water-based fruit ades), pastries, somewhat ordinary sandwiches, Mexican candies, and a few strange and unusual concoctions I had never before come across. The first was a Tostada de Escamochas de Puerco — but not your usual pork, however. This baby had a filling of pickled pork skin squares mixed with chopped sweet onions, tomatoes, and jalapeños, all in a bowl to be placed on or eaten with a pair of deep-fried corn tortillas. The logical accompaniment is a Cocktel de Elote: fresh corn mixed with lemon, onions, grated cheese, and mayonnaise! The latter was served warm, the former cold. My beverage of choice was a large Licuado de Fresa y Piña (fresh strawberries and pineapple). Mucho refreshing!
5124 W. McDowell Road, Phoenix, 602-484-7137.
(Early)BL(Late)D, $4-$15+
La Guadalupana
The early bird (from 7am) gets the Chilaquiles and the late, late bird ('til 11pm weekdays, 3am weekends!) gets the Huaraches — or visa versa. The entire menu is served anytime. It's quite a varied menu, too. Most of the usuals are here for a la carte ordering, or with some combination of beans, rice and fries (the former are topped with a tart Mexican white cheese and the latter are sliced almost shoestring style so they are nice and crispy). The specialties of this casa, however, are the seafood dishes. Shrimp, Oysters, whole and filets of Fish, and even Octopus are featured in a variety of cooking styles and sauces. El mojo de ajo (with garlic butter) is a real winner. There also is an interesting list of Mexican-style seafood cocktails, which are perkily refreshing. Of the land animals, the steer, the chicken, and the pig get the most vigorous workout, although the rabbit (one-half roasted) is included as a single item. (Unfortunately the whole stuffed squab has been taken off the menu permanently.) I consider this restaurant to be a wonderful find; however, there are a few points accompanying its ethnic authenticity that might give you pause. Being in a neighborhood with a substantial Mexican population, the basic language spoken by the wait staff is Spanish (the menu has handy — and some rather comical — translations); there is a television set (sometimes two sets) going non-stop in Spanish; the tablecloths are not changed after each diner; the utensils are wrapped in a paper napkin (although more paper napkins are cheerfully provided, when needed); and they don't accept credit cards. Do the pluses outweigh the minuses? They certainly do for me. Maybe I'll see you there!
2242 N. 16th St., Phoenix, 602-254-5114.
(Early)BLD(Late), $4-$12
La Perla Café
When a restaurant survives for 60 years, the folks who run it must be doing something right. Actually, here they do many things right, but the most important, in my opinion, is their enchilada sauce. This ambrosial liquid, which has a depth of flavor unrivaled throughout the Valley, makes anything it touches turn to gold. One of the best things for it to touch is the Shrimp Enchiladas, a dish with a rather generous amount of crustaceans for its reasonable price. Most of the menu items can be found at the usual Sonoran eatery, but there are a few of the more exotic foods included, among them are Machaca (especially good as a Chili Relleno filling), Lengua, and an interesting Caldo de Queso. But the Spanish-Style Steak will please even the most conservative in your party.
5912 W. Glendale Ave. (at Grand), Glendale. 623-939-7561. Fax 939-0339.
BLD, $4-$6
La Tolteca
Eating in a market can be a fascinating experience, but eating in this Mexican market may not be for everyone. Take the audio atmosphere, for instance. Loud music; incessant, not-at-all-soothing sounds of the video machines; and the screaming of unattended kids racing around the tables may not appeal to tearoom (no, the kind with teacups!) habitues. The food, however, is authentic Sonoran, including the more exotic Cabeza and Lengua, which, along with those South of the border staples as Carne Asada, Al Pastor and Carnitas may be had as burritos, tortas, tacos, etc. With the cool weather approaching, Cocido Soup (short ribs with potatoes, carrots, cabbage, corn and other vegetables) could fuel your fire as a meal ($4.25 for a good-sized bowl). The call to fame here, however, is the Monster Taco, with its big brother the Super Burrito. Loaded with beef or chicken, shredded lettuce, tomato, cheese and both red and green sauce, it is reputed to be the biggest one around.
1205 E. Van Buren St., Phoenix, 602-252-1511. Fax 254-8287.
BLD, $4-$11
Las Cazuelas
Although the exterior of this westside restaurant, which offers a terrific variety of authentic south of the border dishes, including many seafood plates, is typical strip shopping center blah, the interior is a tile-setter's dream. Yes, the sound of Spanish fills the air, but there is an English menu, and most of the servers are bilingual. Start your day with Machaca con Huevo, Chilaquiles or a handful of other egg dishes or, like IHOP, have breakfast for dinner — it's served all day. The Ceviche Tostada and Queso Fundido con Chorizo are splendid appetizers, and there is an interesting variety of whole-meal soups, including the popular Siete Mares (seven types of seafood), Caldo de Camarones (shrimp) and Costa Brava, a devilishly spicy version of Seven Seas. Speaking of shrimp, the Enchiladas Corona are worth every bit of their ten spot price tag. A delicious plate for a couple of bucks less is the Chile Verde (pork cooked in green sauce). Save two and a half dollars more and you can still get a fat Quesadilla Supreme, stuffed with beans, guacamole, lettuce, tomatoes and cheese. Even at two dollars and two bits less again, you can get a delicious Burrito loaded with fish, cabbage, Mexican salsa, and white sauce. Then, for two bills less than that, you can get ... nothing that I can think of (but you are only 15 cents away from a large glass of Jamaica, Horchata or Tamarindo).
5150 W. McDowell Road, Phoenix, 602-278-4885.
LD, $6-$12
Los Dos Molinos
Housed in a historic rambling hacienda, this is one of the most handsome Mexican restaurants in town (or out of town, as some might consider this south Phoenix location to be.) Nevertheless, with their New Mexican style of cooking, it's one of the hottest places in the Valley. When your food goes down the hatch, you'll know that they import their chilies from Hatch, NM — some of the fiercest to be found. Yes, their food is hot, but it also is very tasty. Their Adobada Ribs are a real treat, so tender and juicy you almost don't notice the heat building up in your mouth. Don't worry, a dessert of sweet Sopaipillas will soothe the flames.
8646 S Central, Phoenix, 602-243-9113.
D, $10-$15, Closed Mon.
Los Sombreros Mexican Restaurant
The new home of Los Sombreros is a charming brick cottage that has been stripped down to its bare-bones basics and carefully remodeled to retain its mature warmth and charm. A handsome back bar and misted patio are delightful additions. Now it's colorful and comfy — and the food is still, as you would expect, fabulous! Los Sombreros is owned by Jeffrey and Susie Smedstad, an energetic young couple who make semi-annual treks to central Mexico just to add to the cafe's recipe repertoire. Queso Fundido with Spinach sounds like a glorified cheese dip. Not so. This incredible mixture of spinach, cheese, tomatoes, and mild chiles, presented in an oblong sizzling skillet, is made splendid by the addition of fire-roasted onions and a deft hand with some secret herbs and spices. The Pollo con Espinacas offers a juicy breast cooked with spinach in a chipotle cream sauce. A generous plate of medium-sized plump shrimp share the spotlight with tortillas(!) simmered in a salsa verde with melted jack cheese and crema in Chilaquiles de Camarones, always a good choice. The Puerco en Mole Verde is an ambrosial gustatory delight, with the meat cooked to an ideal tenderness in a magical pumpkinseed tomatillo sauce of immense complexity. The Grilled Chicken Mole has a clever kicker of coriander to contrast the piquant, dark sauce and the Lamb Adobo offers a juicy, meaty shank set askew in a bowl of ambrosial ancho chile sauce. Dessert proves that Los Sombreros can end a meal with the same excitement. The Pumpkin Seed Cake with Caramel Sauce is textbook perfect in every way. An incredible Chocolate Tamale with fresh whipped cream, homemade vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce is better yet, if that's possible. Even the Margaritas pass with flying colors.
2534 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-994-1799. Fax 480-423-0513.
BLD $4-$12
Mariscos Acapulco
To paraphrase Mark Twain, the reports of the demise of this dowdy little hole-in-the-wall place were premature. Not only has it risen from the dead, but don’t be surprised if every table is full when you arrive. They again are doing a heck of a business. They also turn tables rather quickly, so your wait shouldn’t be too long. Get a glass of Piña Colada or an icy cold bottle of Dos Equis Amber, and in no time you could be devouring one of their giant briny Shrimp, Oyster, Ceviche, Snail, Octopus, Abalone, Mix(t)ed or Campechana Cocktails. You won’t find better quality at a seaside restaurant right after the fleet has come in. I love the whole-meal Soups here, especially the Marine Acapulqueña, which contains practically every shellfish known to man. Those who don’t like to mix their metaphors can zero in on Shrimp, Fish, Crab or Shrimp balls. The waitresses don’t speak much English, but if someone at the next table gets something that looks interesting, point to it and say “I want that.” I doubt you’ll go wrong.
3220 E. Thomas Road, Phoenix, 602-954-1400.
LD, $5-$10, closed Mon.
Mi Cocina, Mi Pais
Rosa Rosas brings a bit of Ecuador to north Phoenix in a small shopping center. Here you will find lovely and fragrant dishes like Pork Empanada, Ecuadorian Tamale, Seco de Pollo, Ceviche (with popcorn!), Sango de Camarones and Bogotona.
4221 W. Bell Road, Phoenix, 602-548-7900.
BLD, $4-$9, SV
Mini Mercado Oaxaca
The old saying "never go to a market when you're hungry" falls flat on its face here. You'd better be real hungry stepping into this market, since most of it has become a full-fledged restaurant with traditional Oaxacan (an area near Mexico City) fare that has a universal appeal. And the portions demand your full attention, often for two meals. Good Chilaquiles are hard to find in town, and these come in choice of color: Red, Green, Yellow (or Bean), all con carne as well. Other breakfast possibilities include a variety of Huevos with meats, cheeses and sauces. For other meals, the menu has all the usuals plus lots of regional dishes seldom seen in mainstream places. Some mouth-watering newbies to try are Sopes, Memelitas, Molotes, Gorditas de Chicharron, Tlayudas (get the combo with meat), Tamales Oaxaqueños, Costillas de Puerco con Nopales en Salsa, Mole Negro, Codorniz a la Plancha, Pipian con Pollo and Verdologas en Salsa Verde con Puerco. Wash them down with a Peñafiel, Sidral, Boing, Jarritos, Chilacayota, Agua Fresca de Fruta (several flavors made daily) or a Fresa Esquimo. There even are hot drinks for sipping. Aside from the Cafe de Olla, which is excellent, you might want to indulge in a Champurrado, Atole Blanco or relive your childhood with a Chocolate de Agua (or con Leche).
9407 N. Central Ave. (just north of Hatcher), Phoenix, 602-395-0867.
LD (late), $5-$8
Networks Bar and Grill
With a very limited menu, this bar serves food from Cuba and the Caribbean. There is a very credible version of Cuban Black Bean Soup and four appetizers (prontos) that may or may not be authentic, but are inspired by the region. Latino Wings have a spicy mango glaze while Pork Ribs get their kick from a tamarind sauce. The Flash-Fried Calamari come in a cilantro-lime mojo with a dab of squash relish, and the Chorizo and Manchego Cheese Fondue (fondue is not a sport...nor is it from the Caribbean!) takes island ingredients to absurd but tasty heights. Of the Sandwiches and Wraps, none hail from the area. But, the Caribbean Chicken Sandwich with its guava glaze, grilled pineapple and spicy sprouts; and the Grilled Cuban Sandwich laden with smoked ham, pickles and Swiss cheese pressed (yes, Cuban style) on Cuban sourdough are tasty enough to forgive the stretch. The Hot Roast Beef Wrap, NetWorks Hamburger, and Chilled Cobb Wrap are totally off the map. One more dish, a Huarache (or their version of a Latino Pizza) comes with pork, chicken or roasted vegetables. Two sweet endings (Postres) are possible: a Bunuelo Ice Cream Sandwich with a fresh pineapple-banana rum sauce and Mango Sorbet with fresh berries. Not muy authentico, but muy bueno!
122 N. 2nd St., Phoenix (Hyatt Regency Hotel), 602-252-1234.
BLD, $4-$7, Closed Tues.
Pepe's Taco Villa
They say a good man is hard to find, and it's true! However, in this town, a good mole might be even more elusive. But fret not, 'cause Pepe's has a dark and silky, rich yet elusive version to reckon with. For the daily fare there is an order of three plump chicken enchiladas tucked beneath this heavenly blanket, but if you want chicken plates, you do have to wait for Sundays to partake. Breakfasts are served all day, and the Machacado and Chilaquiles versions come satisfaction guaranteed. Here, the Fajitas are made with skirt steak for far superior flavor, and on Wednesdays the special is Calabacitas, a healthy mixture of squash, corn, and pork. A favorite of mine is Chicharrón, pieces of pork skin in a devilish salsa verde. It's not for every Gringo, just the adventurous.
2108 W Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-242-0379.
LD, $8.95-$15.95
Pink Taco
What's all the fuss about the name? Despite the moniker, you'll see plenty of gay boys here, and they're all having a fun time. In fact, fun is what this place is all about, and if you're in a cranky mood, you'll probably get over it here. By the way, their website is a real hoot, too. Some of the food is mediocre, but some things are amazingly well prepared, as long as you're not demanding the "real" Mexican food that you get in places like Asi Es La Vida. Start with comp thick chips and three lively sauces. The chipotle is my favorite, but all three are tasty. I like the Shrimp Tacos, the Mexican Turkey Chopped Salad, the Sweet Corn Tamales and even the Vegetarian Chilaquiles when I'm not in a meat mode. The Baby Back Ribs, however, are sensational. They (a meaty full rack) come with a tamarind chipotle glaze that surely should be bottled, and remember, a little goes a long way. The ribs are eater friendly (fall right off the bone) and Mmmmmm, good. But the real surprise is the go-withs. You'll wish there was more of the flavorful tomato (and creamy avocado) salad (though the portion is quite hardy), and the roasted white corn, Mexican street-vendor style, is addicting. I haven't tried any desserts yet, but have my eye on their Tres Leches Cake, Chocolate Chile Ancho Cake and Chocolate Tacos!
7135 E. Camelback Road, 480-675-7777, www.pinktaco.com.
LD, $4-$5, SV
Qdoba Mexican Grill
So people would no longer confuse it with Z-Tejas, the former Z-Teca Mexican Grill had to pick a new name. No one was catching his Zs when this heart-happy Mexican fast (but delicious) food emporium was planned. You can see (and taste) that lots of thought went into every facet. The basic concept is simple: give people a pleasing but healthy product, with choices they can make to semi-customize it. Plainly translated, you pick your meat, beans, salsa, cheese and sour cream, which are put into a large, special break-proof tortilla, filled to capacity. You can get anything from grilled veggies to carnitas to poblano pesto (my #1 choice) to chicken mole. A few salads and tacos round out the offerings. Margaritas and Mexican beers are a plus.
3110 N. Central Ave. (in Park Central Mall) Phoenix, 602-277-5800.
BLD, $3-$5
Ranch Market
The experts say you should never go to a market when you are hungry. But, what do they know anyway? One trip to the Phoenix Ranch Market will prove that they're full of baloney ... when surely they would have been much happier being full of Salchicha. Have some of it (a small sausage) along with Tocino, Jamón, Huevos al Gusto and a cup of coffee for Desayuno (breakfast) for just a few pesos, although purists might say that a large serving of Chilaquiles with rice and beans is di rigueur. Don't know what the devil are Chilaquiles? Fortunately, there is a large board with over forty translations of dishes and ingredients in this Mexican mercado plopped right in the heart of south Phoenix. Aside from the grocery part, which has every conceivable fruit, vegetable and cut of meat one would find south of the Rio Grande, along with exotic sauces and their components, canned, packaged and frozen foods, and even cleaning supplies and hardware with old country brands, there are food stalls, too. There is a large area of baked goods and others with fresh fruit drinks, hot meals, take-out meats and even a tortilla factory. The place is a riot of color and a cacophony of sounds, those over the PA system mostly mariachi inspired, but two TVs also add to the confusion. Long picnic tables anchor the center of the "food court" area, and are kept rather clean, considering the volume of food that gets consumed, and the oftentimes-young age of the consumers. A good place to start is the Aguas Frescas stand, with fresh squeezed drinks of pineapple, melon, papaya, tamarind, banana and even rice (horchata), among others. Additionally, Mexican smoothies (Licuados) are made to order here ... and, surprisingly, a few seafood cocktails are under its jurisdiction. Drink in hand, the next order of business is the prepared food area. For Antojitos, try a meal-sized Gordita or a Huarache. Next there are generously stuffed Burritos filled with Pastor, Carne Asada, Carnitas, Buche or Cabeza. Tacos stuffed with the above and Tortas (made with rolls right from their own bakery) with filling choices of Milanesa, Carnitas, Asada, Pierna, Jamón, Pollo Asado and Queso de Puerco are other filling options, along with a few combination plates, one with Birria. Other possibilities involve (2) Tacos, a Tamale, Red and/or Green Chile and Carne Asada. Menudo, Posole and Cocido are full meal soups/stews. Then there's Al Pastor, Carne Asada, Carnitas, Birria, Buche and Cabeza sold by the pound, as well as fall-off-the-bones Costillas, Trompas, Lengue, Tripas and Chicharrones (plain or with meat). Ranch Market has a great Panderia (Bakery) section, filled with breads hot from the oven, beautiful cakes, and a grand assortment of Pan Dulce (Mexican large Cookies and small Cakes, $1).
5833 S. Central Ave. (NE corner of Southern), Phoenix, 602-276-3800.
LD, $4-$9
Raul & Theresa's
If you find yourself in the southwest part of the Valley (only a short detour off I-10), stop in and enjoy a part of historic Arizona. This venerable eatery has been here for over forty years, dishing out Sonoran fare to locals and travelers alike. Although it has grown substantially over time, the essence of the fare has changed little. Expect old Arizona Mexican food — this is the La Perla, the La Cucaracha (RIP), the Rosita's (but not the Garcia's) of Avondale. One decidedly Tucsonian feature is an excellent Carne Seca Burro. Other high points (in addition to the traditional tacos, tostadas, enchiladas and chimichangas) are the Sonora-style Enchilada (a masa patty with olives and onions under a red chili sauce), a tasty (but artery clogging) Chicharrones Burro, and Shrimp Soup. The Machaca Flautas and Theresa's Special Burro (diced beef with jalapeños, tomatoes, crushed chilis, yellow peppers, green chili strips, and onions, enchilada style) are other favorites of mine.
519 Highway 85 (Main Street), Avondale, 623-932-1120.
BLD $4-$12
Restaurante Salvadoreño — Sort of similar to Mexican, but with some interesting new additions, the food of El Salvador is worth a try (unless you’re on Atkins — then forget it!) For breakfast they have eggs and bacon, machaca or chorizo, but also fried potatoes and scrambled eggs with cheese, beans and cream. Other meals might include onion chicken (or steak), chile relleno, beef stew tongue, white beans with pork, fried tilapia or black rice with cheese, cream and beans, perhaps preceded by a pupusa of pork, loroco flower or cheese. Other fun appetizers are fried plantain with cream and beans, boiled yucca with fried pork and tomato sauce, chicken or chipillin and cheese tamales, or even corn tamales served with cream. Shrimps are served aguachile style, or with sweet toasty garlic or in a ceviche salad plate, and there are a quartet of really good soups, but they’re served on weekends only. Desserts are pretty starchy, too, but give one a try. Select from a sweet bread made with cheese and rice, plantain stuffed empanadas with cream filling, pineapple or corn atoles, and nuegados (cookies) made of yucca and honey. Wash it all down with a tamarind citrus or morrow seed drink.
8911 N. Central Ave., Suite #101 (Sunnyslope Village), Phoenix, 602-870-2955. www.salvadorenorestaurant.com.
D, $19, closed Mon.
Rio Brazilian Cuisine Rodizio
When most "Americans" think of Brazil, they almost always have visions of a beautiful bay with miles of white sandy beaches and palm trees butting up to some rugged mountains, with the city of Rio de Janeiro (at Mardi Gras time) sandwiched in between. But although oceanside Rio has a large portion of its cuisine based on seafood, the vast inland areas are not so lucky. We need not pity them, however, because their protein comes from an abundance of beef, pork, chicken, lamb and turkey. The menu at Olga and Ary Camara's rodizio, in what is now considered midtown Scottsdale, is based on the non-maritime regions. Only there is no menu at Rio. The rodizio part means a bounty of meats, and that's precisely what you get ... along with two rather substantial buffets, one hot and one cold. That is the entire meal, and, at the current price, it is quite a bargain. The normal procedure is to start with the cold assortment, which has a selection of better than normal quality ingredients. My advice, notwithstanding, is to skip this section, or, at the very least, to leave it until the last of the churrasco (broiled meats) is served. Then, if you're not too full, go for it! Do take your time on the hot dishes, however, as there is much to explore here. Start with the famous feijoada, arguably Brazil's national dish of beef, ribs and sausage with rice a la Rio and creamy black beans on the side. You'll also find delicately fried fish, squares of rich tasting polenta, tasty puffs of a potato mixture (can you say potato knishes?), and a bowl of rigatoni, which became a fine base for yummy butter sauteed collard greens with little bits of Brazilian bacon. Now, another word of warning. Although you can go back to the hot buffet again and again, don't. The churrasco, yet to come, is another story — and a delicious one that you'll want to concentrate on one chapter at a time. First to appear is a homemade sausage, spicy and a little hot. After only a few minutes the chef returns with a skewer of crisp skinned, juicy chicken, which he carefully slices off into everyone's plate. Continuing this somewhat frenzied pace, he next brings out a swordful of turkey chunks wrapped in that fabulous Brazilian bacon, each one oozing of natural juices. The succession continues with my favorite, slightly salty but full flavored hunks of pork with rings of fresh pineapple, deskewered for all to partake in. The relentless procession next turns to hand-carved lamb, then tri-tip, then top sirloin. Each is an exquisite slab of top quality meat, the sweet juices flowing out as the slices are made. But, we still are not finished. For those with large capacities (or those who were smart enough to heed the prior warnings), a skewerful of succulent pork ribs is the reward. The coffee, which is supposed to put the capital "B" in Brazil, is okay, but nothing to rave over (where is Juan when we need him?) — but the fried bananas in syrup put a sweet ending to a fine meal.
10425 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-991-1952.
BLD, $4-$12
Rita's Restaurant
If you were blindfolded and taken here, chances are you might believe you were in a Mexican border town cantina. The ambiance, the clientele, and the cuisine all are muy authentico. Although you can find the usual Tacos, Burritos and Enchiladas (and some unusual ones — like Lengua, Camaron and Tripitas de Leche — too), the specialties here are mostly seafood oriented. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Mole de Pollo, the Nopalitos con Carne de Puerco or the Bistec Picado Estilo Ranchero, it's just that the Camarones al Mojo de Ajo, Pescado a la Plancha and Coctele Vuelva a la Vida are always fresh and highly recommended. Then there are the specials of the day — usually something quite special indeed — like the Pork Ribs Adobado I had on a recent visit. And, don't forget to leave room for the homemade Flan. Bottles of Mexican Coke and Fanta are served, but I prefer an Orchata or Tamarindo or Piña (or an imported beer from the varied selection).
1402 N. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-278-7376.
LD, $7-$16+, lunch served M-F only.
Rokerij
In a charming stone cottage who's looks belie its recent vintage, Richardson Browne has brought a combination of Dutch bar food and southwestern themed dishes together, probably for the first time anywhere. All the Entrees save one exceed our price limit, but the Small Plates, Salads and Bigger Plates (the bulk of the menu) are all solidly affordable. Among the latter, try Oscar's Mexico City Ceviche, Blue Crab Tostadas, Steak Tartare and Veal Mini Meatballs with San Marzano Diablo Sauce. The Southwest Chopped Salad with Ancho Chile Dressing is awesome, and the Bigger Plates include Carne Adovada, Schreiner's SW Sausages, a savory Burger Trio Platter and a delightful Rokerij Charcuterie and Cheese Platter, in two convenient sizes. Lunch is only served M-F.
6335 N. 16th St.; 602-287-8900.
BLD, $4-$8, SV
Sonora Panaderia y Taqueria
For those who don't live with a chef named José, this is the place to go. Even your own Joe wouldn't be able to keep enough items on hand to whip up the mixture of homey Mexican foods served here. With Taqueria being its last name, the variety of tacos served should be impressive — and it is. Without having to give an impromptu lesson in Spanish, I will list only the English translations of the kinds available: Broiled Beef, Fried Pork, Beef Tongue, Beef Head, BBQ Pork, Chicken, Goat, BBQ, Tripe and Buche (the latter one does not seem to be translatable by any of the staff, but I can assure you it is quite tasty, whatever it is). Not to be outdone by the Taqueria, the Panderia has an awesome range of baked goods, from breads and cookies to four-tier wedding cakes. The menu boasts sections of breakfast dishes, burritos, Mexican sandwiches, broiled chicken, sea food, quesadillas, appetizers, soups, sides, combination plates, drinks and desserts. The Goat Soup, the Head Soup, Menudo and Pozole (red and white) are much more than just a cold night warming tool. Also, the Shrimp Soup is a must, even for gringos. The Gorditas, Pollo en Mole, Milanesa, and Flautas Ahogadas are well recommended, and I would be sure to save room for the Pastel de Queso, a rich and caloric cheesecake.
1930 W. Thunderbird Road, #113, Phoenix 602-896-9890.
(early) BLD, $4-13
Sylvia's La Canasta Mexican Restaurante
Sylvia's La Canasta restaurant and Sylvia's Mexican Import Gift and Furniture Shop are finally one. Their extensive remodel flattened the tiny original joint for parking, and produced a modern kitchen and two additional dining rooms adorned in the traditional Sonoran-American style. A third (northernmost) dining room was the original gift and furniture shop, where one is still surrounded by lovely, colorful artifacts and beautifully carved furniture. Find a comfy seat at a handsome table. If you like it, you can buy it. If you like the one across the way (with the hunky man sitting at it), you can buy that one (table) instead. If not...well, the food is delicious—and one helluva bargain to boot. Special dishes include fish tacos, Navajo tacos, flautas topped with excellent guacamole, green corn tamales, machaca chile rellenos, crab enchiladas, and steak fritanga (a mixture of mushrooms, bacon and hot yellow chiles). Margaritas by the glass or pitcher add to the festivities.
5508 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-242-4252.
BLD, $4-$8, SV
Tacos de Juarez
If you like your Mexican food Sonoran style, this small oasis will satisfy your hot-tooth — once you find it. For breakfast they have a few kinds of huevos platas and wake-up burros as well as a homey menudo (every day). Midday and early evening choices include wonderful thick Gorditas redolent of sweet roasted corn (the pork or the carne asada are best), deep fried tacos of ground beef and potatoes, or perhaps a burro filled with tender Lengua Entomatado (tongue in tomato sauce). There's even a section on the menu with Marisco (seafood) cocktails, stews, and entrees. Breakfasts are only served at breakfast time on weekends and they close after lunch on Wednesdays.
1017 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-258-1744.
(early)BLD(late), $4-$10, SV
Tacos Mexico
Entering through the patio and walking past the enormous grill, one gets the idea — and rightfully so — that the specialties of the house are going to be cooked over charcoal. For the most part, that is true. The beef (carne asada), pork (carnitas), marinated pork (pastor), and chicken (pollo), whether ordered in a taco, burrito, torta (sandwich) or a tostada, is going to be moist and flavorful from the grilling. Even if you don't speak Spanish, don't forget that they do a wonderful job with tripa (tripe), sesos (brains), and cabeza (head), if you're so inclined. They are not listed on the English side of the menu, probably in deference to those gringo's who would be sickened by the very idea of consuming those parts. Somehow, tongue (lengua) does appear bilingually, and I encourage you to try that, too. There is a combination plate of your choice of three meats, rice and beans, which is quite reasonable and a good way to experiment. Other goodies are cocktails of shrimp, octopus, and oysters; shrimp or 7 seas soups; and menudo every day. Flan is the desert of choice. Among the fresh drinks are horchata, jamaica, tamarindo and piña.
2333 N. 16 St., Phoenix, 602-253-5163.
LD, $5.50/lb.
Val's Brazilian Delicacies
I'm always delighted to find a good Mom and Pop run restaurant among the jungle of corporate eateries, and I regret that there have only been two Brazilian restaurants in town (both serve a buffet and then a rodizio (meats carved from skewers until you're stuffed to the gills), at a pretty hefty price (this kind of food ain't cheap, you know). Well, now we have a Westside restaurant that solves both dilemmas — a petit Mom and Daughter run Brazilian eatery (only four tables) that serves a buffet priced by the pound. We stuffed ourselves sampling the various native foods, and paid about $15 for the two of us sharing three platefuls (I believe it's around $5.50 per pound). Both Val, the mother, and Alinne, the daughter, are as helpful as can be, explaining the various dishes (in an accent that makes total comprehension difficult) and even bringing out samples of other dishes for all the patrons. Being served the day we were there were imported sausages, pork in wine sauce, roasted beef, tuna and elbow casserole, hearty baked beans, mashed potatoes, a truly delicious and refreshing salsa and a fine but simple version of Feijoada (fay-ZHWAH-duh), a dish of rice, beans, meat and greens (sometimes hearts of palm, orange slices and hot peppers, but not here), Brazil's most famous dish. Val, however, will sprinkle some Farofa, crumbles of a nutty tasting yucca flour sauteed with bacon, eggs and seasonings on top, adding another enjoyable flavor to the mix. Be sure to sample some of Val's homemade desserts, too, including a lovely Coconut Flan (like a custard), traditional Flan, a Pineapple Cake and incredible Brazilian fudge balls called Brigadeiro ($2 and $1). And the coffee? Imported from Brazil, naturally!
14960 W. Indian School Road, (Wigwam Commons at Wigwam Blvd.), Goodyear, 623-925-0352; www.valsbraziliancuisine.com.
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