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American A-H
American I-Z
South of the Border
European
Middle-Eastern/Indian/African
Asian
Seafood, Jewish, Vegetarian ...
KEY:
B = breakfast
L = lunch
D = dinner
N = late night
SV = special value
Prices ranges shown are for a single entree
American (including regional)
BL, $4-7, closed Sun.
InPockets
The pockets are squares of bread dough stuffed with some very flavorful combinations of fillers. You order at a counter and then wait while your pocket is being baked (give this part 10 to 20 minutes). The results are delectable. Try the Chandlers Mark, barbecued pulled pork, or the Distinguished Gentlemen, mild Italian sausage, mozzarella, roasted red peppers and hearty marinara sauce. We also liked the Boardwalk, filled with smoked salmon, capers, cream cheese and red onions, and The Original, stuffed with ground beef, cabbage, onions and seasonings, which reminded us very much of a Russian pirogi. Each comes with choice of one of five sides. The Baked Taters tasted like homemade tater tots, only more addictive. Of the half dozen salads offered, the Toasted Pecan with carmelized pecans, red onions and goat cheese tossed with mixed baby field greens in a raspberry walnut dressing is a favorite. Be sure to pick up a loaf of freshly baked Apple Bread, if they have any left. You'll be the most popular person at your office.
40 S. San Marcos Place (on the west side of The Square), Chandler, 480-726-2253.
BLD, $7-$16, 5111 North 7th St., 602-240-6969.
Jaded
You'd have to be more jaded than, say, Paris Hilton, not to have noticed the incredible changes in the metamorphosis from Hamburger Mary's/Burger Betty's to Jaded. Yes, the venue has been spiffed up, but, smartly, they have concentrated on the food and the new menu, and let me tell you (if you don't already know), this is becoming a destination restaurant for those seeking a really good meal at quite reasonable prices. Now if they could only improve on the service and kitchen speed, I'm sure they would be perennially crowded. Put your mind into gear for a pleasantly laid-back experience, and you surely will have one. There are so many appetizing dishes on the menu, I will have to give you two suggestions from each category (although I could easily do more). The Eggplant Melanzane and the Green Lip Mussels (a whole pound's worth) are great appetizers, as is the complex Mushroom Asiago (used to be Brie, which is still on the menu) Soup. The Fajita Salad and the Cobb are both highly recommended, as are the first five Burgers (I know, five is really cheating, but it's hard to pick favorites here) on the listing (we have yet to try the Jaded Burger). The East Coast Rueben is one of the best I've had anywhere, and the Gouda Chicken (with basil pesto and roasted red peppers) is sinfully good, too. Rich, rich, rich describes the Five Cheese Pasta, and the Southwest Chipotle Alfredo is rich and piquant, a lovely combination. For Entrees they boast several fresh fishes, and they do taste pleasantly mild and briny, but the Chicken Roulades (with prosciutto, basil and smoked Gouda under a scrumptious Port wine sauce) and the amazing New Zealand Rack of Lamb (eight baby loin chops "seared to not more than medium" [rah for them] with a piquant ginger tarragon demi-glaze, sided with fabulous garlic mashed and al dente sauteed veggies), all for a mere $16.50, the highest thing on the menu ... and undoubtedly the best buy. Although we were too Jaded (read full) to have dessert, I'm sure they're in the same league as the rest of the meal.
LD, $4-$7.50, SV, Closed Sun., Mon.
Joan's Kitchen
If you aren't in the lunch bunch, this place isn't for you, 'cause the folks here don't serve breakfast and they don't serve dinner. They only serve a simple but delicious homestyle cooked lunch. Soups, which change daily, are all hearty, and the salads aren't fancy, but they are made with quality ingredients in a basic but tasty mode. The Chef Salad is outstanding. The star at Joan's, however, is the Chicken and Dumpling (no, that's not a typo). The reason for the singular dumpling is that it's gigantic. Sort of reminds me of Ayer's Rock in Priscilla: Queen of the Desert. Anyway, this model is surprisingly airy and full of flavor, accompanied by a sea of lightly sauced, wonderful tasting pieces of tender chicken. Fish and Fries is another luminary on the menu. The service is down-home friendly and reasonably swift. The prices are very easy to swallow as well.
1857 N. Scottsdale Rd. (at McKellips Road), Scottsdale, 480-946-1849.
LD, $5-$10, Closed Sun.
Joe's Real BBQ
Housed in a huge barn-like building built in 1929, when Gilbert was just a dusty one-horse town, Joe's premise is to bring you fine quality meats, slowly smoked beside (not on) a pecan wood fire until tender and juicy, and then married to the proper amount of piquant barbecue sauce. Simple, seductive, and now, not a secret! In fact, it's just the opposite since the word has spread. The meats, from the Beef Brisket to the Pulled Pork to the Pit Ham to the Chicken to the Turkey Jalapeño Sausage (made locally to Joe's specs), are all that a Q should be. The sandwiches and the plates (of one to three meats) come with one or two sides, which can be as boring as the potato salad or as tasty as the cheesy potatoes. Speaking of spuds, a Jumbo (and that's modestly speaking for a one-pounder) Baker Loaded with butter, sour cream, cheese and chives, and Stuffed with any meat is a real bargain not to mention a whole meal. Another house specialty, the Chopped Salad (with BBQ Ranch dressing!) topped with a pile of chopped meat, rings up at only a buck more. A nice variety of brews are available from tappers, including Joe's Real Rootbeer, Brewed Iced Tea, and Fresh Limeade. There are domestic and imported non-alcoholic beers and, for the kids, milk and bottled sodas.
301 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert, 480-503-3805. Fax 503-0837.
LD $6-$15
Joey's California Bistro
Upbeat, up-style, and up north! Lucky are those who live near Tomaso Maggiore's newest venture. The Bistro is pleasantly casual, although the service is profusely attentive. The menu is somewhat a hybrid of a pizza/pasta joint and a fine Italian dinner-house. The Maggiore touch insures that the traditional will have just a little wildness around the edges. In the Pizza and Calzone section, for instance, there is a Thai Chicken pie topped with julienne vegetables, chilies, cilantro, scallions, peanuts, and fresh mint. The Pasta listing includes a Wild Mushroom Tortellini filled with Portobella, porcini, and shitaki mushrooms in a Parmesan cream sauce, which is sinfully rich and utterly delicious. Joey's California Crab Cakes add roasted garlic, caramelized onions, fontina cheese and a variety of colorful bell peppers to real crab meat for a taste sensation. On the cooler side is a Lettuce Wrap of chicken tenderloin which has been seared in sesame oil, served with crispy noodles and a hot and sour sauce for dipping. The Bistro Salad is to die for, with lightly fried calamari and rock shrimp tossed with tomato and avocado in a tomato-basil vinaigrette on mixed greens. I also pine for the Fricassee of Chicken and Sausage, with garlic, Portobella mushrooms, and pepperocini when I have put off my northern pilgrimage for too long.
610 E. Bell Rd., Phoenix, 602-789-8044. Fax 602-789-8364.
L(late)D $5-$20
Johnny's Uptown
In the space that formerly housed A League of Our Own, Johnny's has done little to change the venue although not that much was necessary, since League had remodeled less than a year before they shuttered. It still has three distinctly divergent areas, the large patio at the entrance (better at night, since there is little shade from the sun), the clubby bar and lounge area, and the large nightclub, where the live entertainment maintains the center of attention. The menu is American eclectic; the food, at its best, is excellent. Unfortunately, it's not always at its best. We've had luck with the Onion & Ale Soup topped with stringy mozzarella, a Spinach Salad with apples, nuts and cheese, the glazed Baby Back Ribs and the Pork Shank (actually a trio of delicious rib-in cuts). On the other hand, the burgers were cooked dry and the Roasted Green-lipped Mussels stuffed with cheese is a totally ill conceived dish. Next time I go back I have my eye on the Garlic Confit, Chicken and Forest Mushroom Crepe and Linguini with Basil Pesto, or maybe the Shrimp Scampi Portofino, or the Pacific Rim Ahi tuna.
40 E. Camelback Road, Suite 102 (at the elbow), Phoenix, 602-277-5999.
(early)BL, $4-$6, SV
Kiss the Cook
You don't have to be in love with the cook to eat here, but if you do (eat here), you certainly will leave in love with the cook's food. While some eateries try to be everything to everybody, KtC concentrates on two meals only breakfast and lunch and does both very well. Break your fast with something like Oatmeal Royal, and, for a mere $3.50 you get a bowlful of the time-honored cereal (not that instant garbage) garnished with raisins, walnuts and brown sugar, plus a basket of their famous fresh homemade mini-muffins. In fact, almost every breakfast includes the Baker's Basket. Even the usuals are a step above here. Try their Corn Beef Hash or Eggs Benedict and compare to elsewhere. Or the Pancakes or French Toast. I doubt anyone could resist the sweet and sticky homemade Pecan Cinnamon Rolls, a house specialty. I don't know of any other place that does a Snow Pea and Mushroom Omelet (with water chestnuts, onions and jack cheese), but after one taste you'll be asking why no one else does. Love to meddle in the kitchen, but hate the clean up? Here you can design your own three egg Omelet with three fillings of your choosing from a list of 15. Lunches are well prepared, too, and a real bargain. You can have a good old-fashioned PBJ (or Peanut Butter and Sprouts, if you're a brave soul) for a paltry $2.75, or splurge on an Albacore Tuna Salad Sandwich (the most expensive on the menu made with water chestnuts, too) at $4.95! Salads (even the Seafood Salad with cucumber and Dill) generally run about half-a-buck higher, with the Cajun Chicken Caesar topping out everything at $6.50. There are only two desserts (and Cookies), and both, made on the premises, are fabulous. The Oreo Cheese Cake is from the recipe of the one served at the Scottsdale Culinary Arts Festival Dessert Competition, and the Carrot Cake is from some heavenly recipe they got from somewhere they're not telling. By the way, even if you don't lay one on the cook, you'll get a sweet kiss from the kitchen with every meal (approx. 25.56 calories).
4915 W. Glendale Ave., Glendale, 623-939-4663.
LD, $7-$20+
La Grocerie
There's a lot to like about this contemporary bistro and wine bar, but, despite its moniker, it squarely deserves to be set in the "American" category. Its sleek and comfortable surroundings make its commendable food taste even better. The venue itself is divided into two sections, the bar predominates one and the kitchen the other. Ample outdoor patio space awaits those ready to brave the heat and monsoons. If you're good at making difficult decisions, pick your favorite from among my favorite Appetizers: Chipotle Shrimp and Black Bean Quesadilla, Crab Cakes with a spicy red pepper Harissa Sauce or Apple and Gorgonzola Quesadilla with Prosciutto and Candied Walnuts. Can't pick just one? Then you're a candidate for the Gourmet Bruschetta, where you get to choose four (for only $11) from a list that contains tempting creations like Sundried Tomato, Basil Pesto & Feta; Mascarpone & Strawberries; Chardonnay Mushrooms with Parmesan; Warm Brie with Candied Walnuts and Dried Bing Cherries; Prosciutto with Arugula & Goat Cheese and Roasted Peppers & Artichoke Hearts with Hummus. I like the whole-meal salad of Grilled Steak with Brown Sugar Balsamic, Gorgonzola Cheese, Piñon Nuts and Sundried Tomatoes, but there are four others, too. At lunchtime there are lots of Sandwiches and Paninis, in the evening there are only four listed, but they include a delicious Prosciutto and Goat Cheese (with caramelized onions, mushrooms and basil pesto) and a half-pound Burgundy Burger, topped with onions, mushrooms, bacon and cheese. Why look further in the Pastas after you've discovered the Pan-Seared Chicken Farfalle with Shitake Mushrooms & Butternut Squash in a Sweet Cream Sauce? Do you think you'd prefer the Chardonnay Shrimp & Scallops over Angel Hair? There still are others to tempt you, too. Dinner Entrees get a little heavy on the price, although they cover a nice range from chicken to salmon to pork chops to scallops to steak. I have yet to try their newest addition, Gourmet Pizzas, but will report on them when I do. The desserts are well crafted, but the variety is quite lackluster.
5626 W. Bell Rd. (Allante Plaza), Glendale, 602-548-8889.
Fax 602-863-1615.
LD, $6-$15+
Landmark Restaurant
This traditional American food eatery is housed in a nearly 100 year-old building that originally was a Mormon church and later the original campus of Mesa Community College. It not only is noted for its fine quality food at reasonable prices, but first and foremost for its enormous salad room, a rather large chamber with every salad fixin' you can imagine ... and then lots more! Although unlimited trips through it are included with some of the higher priced dinner items (most of which exceed our $15 entree limit), it is also available for a reasonable surcharge with any lunch or dinner item and well worth it, we must admit. Service is attentive but not overbearing, and linen napkins are to be expected, even for the noontime meal, which includes sandwiches (try the shaved Prime Rib with White Cheddar and Horseradish Sauce) and some hearty entrees as well (the Chicken Marsala is yummy.) For dinner the Fried Sea Scallops or the Roasted Lamb Shank will please the most fastidious of diners. Leave room for an excellent house-made Bread Pudding. Lunches served weekdays only.
809 W. Main St. (at Extension Rd.), Mesa, 480-962-4652.
LD, $5-$15, SV
Linda's on Osborn
A few years ago Linda changed the name of the former RJ's to include her own moniker, since she was the chief cook and bottle washer. Aside from that, little has changed here in the many years she has owned this cute diminutive freestanding cafe. The menu covers many bases, from appetizers to salads to soups to sandwiches and burgers to desserts, with nothing startlingly out of the ordinary. Clipped to the laminated listing are about a half-dozen 3x5 cards with the day's specials, which rotate on a mysterious, but regular, basis. Most of the well-prepared dishes are fried with a gentle hand, especially those "From the Sea," a featured area. Grilled fish and meats are almost always to be found among the dailies, for those who shun the deep fryer. Enter through the side door at your own peril you pass by all the freshly baked pies, which are virtually impossible to resist.
2333 E. Osborn Road, Phoenix, 602-956-4420.
BLD, $4-$10, closed Mon.
Lo-Lo's Chicken & Waffles
Everyone knows where to get great waffles in Phoenix. And, all of you know where to get fabulous fried chicken, as well. But, let's face it, hardly a soul knows where to get great waffles and fabulous fried chicken all on the same plate at the same time. Actually, the word "soul" gives this one away, since this odd but dynamic duo is only seen together at restaurants where soul (food) is the name of a cuisine, such as Mrs. White's (of Golden Rule Cafe fame) nephew's new spot, Lo-Lo's. Believe it or not, serving up "the barnyard pimp with delicious golden brown waffles" is not today's newest fad, but yesterday's tradition brought into the 21st Century. High carb? You bet but, then again, what southern cooking isn't? Just tell Dr. Atkins you're on vacation, and dig into those Grits, Home Fries or Smothered Spuds and be sure to get a pile of hearty Beans over Rice while you're at it. Don't forget the Corn Muffin, with a Side of Gravy so you don't run out. Of course on weekends (only) you can top all that with an order of Mac & Cheese. Health food addicts can opt for Eggs with Cheese and Onions, or some of the best (mixed) Greens around, with a little pool of potlikker in the bowl, if you're lucky. Yes, they've even got milk and OJ, if I may be a name-dropper. Open until 2am on Friday nights/Saturday mornings.
10 W. Yuma St. (2 blocks south of Buckeye Road), Phoenix, 602-340-1304.
LD, $9, closed Mon.
Mac Q's Classic Grill Buffet
I don't know why, but, as far as I know, no one has tried an all-you-can-eat BBQ Buffet in town before now. Here, in one cavernous room where the decor is purely perfunctory, there is a buffet line with several stations of pretty decent food. Offering everyday three of the following five barbecued meats: pork or beef ribs, chicken, pork or turkey, there also is a salad bar, a taco bar, side dishes and condiments, and a limited refrigerated dessert case. Soft drinks, amazingly, are even included in the price. Although it's not fancy (the center that houses it is pretty run down, as well), if you enjoy good 'cue, you'll come here, too.
12450 N. 35th Ave., Scottsdale, 602-298-2430.
LD $6-$7 (Pizzas $11-15) SV
Market Bistro
"Fresh in the box - Fast out the window" is the marketing catch phrase of this convenience take-home emporium and eatery. The menu, the decor and, indeed, the entire concept are simple and straightforward. If you could survive on salads, sandwiches and pizzas, there are enough variations and permutations of ingredients (about 30 mix-ins) to have a different one each day for a year and not have to repeat. In or out, Market Bistro is an urge you'll get quite often.
777 E. Thunderbird Road, Phoenix, 602-942-2200, www.mktbistro.com.
(early)BL, $5-$8, SV; closed Mon.
Matt's Big Breakfast
Actually the breakfast is a pretty normal size, but with the cafe being so small (it's in the old Shorty's space), everything looks bigger here. What you could (no, should) say is big, however, is the heart of each member of the staff. Like the jolly cook/waitress at the old-fashioned corner lunch counter in the days of yore (way pre-Denny's), the folks here actually care if you like your food (you will love it) and will cater to your most bizarre idiosyncrasy (food-wise) if they at all are able. They want to make you happy and have you return often. The ingredients they use are all topnotch and fresh as can be. Things like Free-range eggs, thick-cut bacon, country sausages, Soppresata salami, Iowa pork rib chops and off-the-bone ham make breakfast here special. Jump start your day with old-fashioned steel-cut Oatmeal with pure cane sugar and juicy raisins, or a trio of fat homemade Griddlecakes with sweet cream butter and real maple syrup. Matt doesn't skimp at lunchtime, either. His Egg Salad of chopped eggs with bread-and-butter pickles and sweet onion, served on country bread, will transport you back to the days of Judy Garland without even having to click your heels. More current is the Chicken Sandwich where they actually cook the chicken breast from scratch (none of that pressed stuff), marinate it in pesto, and place it, topped with piquant provolone and romaine, on a rustic roll. Ever have a BLT with today's tasteless Mexican tomatoes? Why bother. Matt's have that old tomato taste, his thick-cut bacon is awesome, the mayo is real (non of Rykoff's gloppy spread) and the bread is a lovely toasted country-style. I absolutely adore the Tossed Cobb salad, a jumble of iceberg and romaine (mostly the latter), bacon, chopped eggs, olives, tomato bits and Maytag blue cheese, united with a zingy red wine vinaigrette. This one should be patented.
801 N. 1st St. (at McKinley), Phoenix, 602-254-1074.
D, $14-$15+
Mining Camp Restaurant
At the foot of the Superstition Mountains, this rustic family-style all-you-can-eat cook shanty has darned good vittles in endless portions. Lots of fun corniness, too!
Off of US Highway 88, north of Apache Junction, 480-982-3181.
B, $5-$10
Morning Glory Cafe & Bakery
Say you're in South Phoenix, it's 8am, and you're hungry as heck. What to do? Head to the Morning Glory Cafe at the Farm at South Mountain. Drive, walk or jog through the pecan groves to the back of the property where the farms are. There you will find a charming patio, with heat and shade as necessary, and tables edging the voluptuous flowers and veggies. The menu features hot-from-the-oven bakery items, farm fresh eggs and veggies harvested just hours before you eat them. Then there are Quiches, Croques Madame, French Toast, Belgian Waffles and homemade Pecan Granola (you passed the trees on the way in). The Bacon is Applewood Smoked and the Sausage is Turkey. Feel yourself doubly blessed if your dish comes with their Oven Roasted Red Potatoes. Did I mention that everything is of the highest quality and as fresh as is humanly possible? Even their Cafe Cortez Coffee is locally roasted. Weekends can be particularly crowded, and they only serve 'til noon (11am on Tuesdays thru Fridays), so do come early enough for a leisurely time.
6106 S. 32nd St., Phoenix, 602-276-0601.
LD, $6-$9, Closed Sat., Sun.
Mrs. White's Golden Rule Café
When it comes to Soul Food, one of the first is still one of the best! Fresh veggies and a skilled hand with the fryer keep this place on top. Remarkable Smothered Chicken, Catfish and fresh Peach (or other fruit in season) Cobbler.
808 E. Jefferson St., Phoenix, 602-262-9256.
LD, $8-$13, Closed Mon.-Thu.
Off da Hook
It's only open weekends (Fri-Sun), has no atmosphere (it's in the very back of the Indoor Swapmart), and isn't exactly cheap. So why do I recommend this place? Their little kitchen puts out some of the best soul food and soul fish in town. You'll love their Catfish, Whiting and Red Snapper, as well as Jumbo Shrimp, and don't forget the meat side of the matter, too. Fried Chicken, of course, is masterfully done, and even plain Baked Chicken is not so plain after all. I recommend the Pork Chops, Meatloaf and Hotlinks, and love to gnaw on their BBQ Ribs, whether they be pork or beef. Oxtails aren't always available, but when they are, grab 'em, and the Gumbo is authentic. Chitterlings are not easy to find around this town, so if you're a fan, this is the place to go. Tasty down home sides include Dirty Rice, Greens, Yams and super Mac and Cheese.
5115 N.27th Ave., Phoenix, 602-242-2828.
LD, $6-$10+, SV
Old Town Border
George Cavalliere opened a blacksmith shop in 1910 on the "edge of town". Ten years later he replaced the original tin building with the currently standing adobe shop, and within the last two decades annexed a neighboring building into a Mexican import store. Late last year Old Town Border took over the retail space, including most of the furniture part of the merchandise, which now serves the restaurant well. The venue's theme is old southwest, and the menu, for the most part, follows suit. Their specialty is big (1/2 pound), thick, juicy 100% Angus Beef Burgers, and last time in I thoroughly enjoyed my Mushroom Burger topped with Swiss cheese and lovely sauteed onions (plus smoky bacon, at my request). While waiting for your meal, indulge in their Wagon Wheel (stuffed) Quesadilla, with meat, red peppers, poblano chilies and two shredded cheeses: pepper jack and cheddar. Other goodies to take the edge off your appetite include Border Wings (Buffalo or BBQ) and a truly delicious dish called Fried Green Beans. Here whole green beans are battered with coconut and red chilies, and it's worth the trip here all by itself! Soups change, but if they serve the Chicken Pot Pie potage when you're there, go for it. The Bistro Filet and Blue Cheese Salad makes a great lunch, and you won't go away hungry. Of the quartet of Sandwich choices, do try the TAC. A pile of house-cooked turkey joins avocado, cheddar cheese and cranberry mayo on golden grilled sourdough. After 6pm they serve two Big Plates, one of a filet topped with Border Mustard Sauce, and the other a Salmon filet with caper garlic relish and lemon butter. End your adventure (or have a very late breakfast) with The Post Mortem, a toasted waffle topped with sauteed bananas drenched with maple syrup, vanilla ice cream and chocolate syrup.
3815 N. Brown Ave. (between 1st and 2nd streets), Scottsdale, 480-970-1900. www.oldtownborder.com.
LD, $4-$8, SV
Ono Hawaiian BBQ
The food from our 50th state seems quite at home in its new location near Thomas Road's big boxes. Speaking of boxes, the portions are so large, you'll most probably be bringing one of their white styro boxes home with you full of delicious leftovers of Kailbi Short Ribs, Hawaiian BBQ Beef or Crispy Shrimp. Chicken lovers can have their bird done in several styles: Island Curry, Maui Pineapple, Curry Katsu, Teriyaki and BBQ; all are treated with respect. For seafood we suggest you pass on the bland Mahi-Mahi, but do indulge in the Crispy Shrimp or the Garlic Shrimp. For an authentic experience, start with a BBQ Chicken Musubi (like a cooked sushi), a bowl of Seafood Noodle Soup (this could be a meal by itself), and Kalua Pork with Cabbage. All plates come with Vegetables (cabbage), Macaroni Salad and Steamed Rice, for a major carb overload. Burgers, Salads and Hawaiian bottled Drinks are other menu highlights, and there are some combo plates at lower prices than you'll find at the islands, themselves.
3923 E. Thomas Rd., Suite B-4, Phoenix, 602-306-1688.
LD, $6-$20+, Closed Mon.
Open Range Steakhouse
For a place out in the boonies (just a few miles from the Renaissance Festival), this steakhouse is far better than it has to be for its captive audience. Full of old west kitch and corny doodads, Open Range is clean and comfy, and deceptively larger than it appears from the outside. In the center is a well-stocked salad bar with enough variety to make interesting bowls of greens, reds, and other fixin's colors, but not really full meal plates. The menu is rather long, but definitely not exotic. There are the usual Sandwiches, Salads, Burgers, and a small Pasta section, along with Steaks, Seafood, Prime (on weekends) and St. Louis Ribs, and a few Down Home Specialties as well. The meats are of good quality, and prepared exactly to specs. Deluxe Toppers can (and should) customize anything on the menu, at a mere pittance. We liked the Swiss, Blue Moon, Wild West and Mexicali. For Dessert we suggest the Almost World Famous Chocolate Raspberry Brownie then you can help spread the word so they can delete the "Almost." Hours are seasonal, so if you want to go in June through October, call ahead first to make sure they're open.
6030 S. King's Ranch Road, Gold Canyon, 480-983-3020.
B, $5-$9+
Over Easy
For a few years now, Aaron May has been
basking in the (much deserved) glory of Sol y Sombra, his
DC Ranch tapas emporium extraordinaire. At this point
the urge to expand has him opening, of all places, Over
Easy, a breakfast joint that intends to take the first meal of
the day to heights rarely attained before. So, what makes
May’s breakfasts stand out from all the rest? Freshness,
freshness, freshness! Although he doesn’t mention
organic, the honest-to-goodness real taste of all the
ingredients attests to the superior quality of everything
they serve, even standards like bacon, eggs and hash
browns. Over Easy redefines the taste of ova, charcuterie
and griddle and baked goods in a way that could make an
old farmer smile. Enjoy old-fashioned tastes like Malted
Waffles with Butter and Syrup, Blueberry Pancakes with
Powdered Sugar, Razz Cherry Scone with Vanilla Crème
Fraîche and Honey or hearty Wheat Toast with Quince
and Vanilla Jam. Their Ham Steak with Red Eye Gravy will
take you back to Bluegrass Country, their bacon is brought
in from the Midwest, and their Seared Scottish Salmon
(with Asparagus and Hollandaise) no doubt swam alongside
Nessie in the old country. Even the beverages here
will have you wowed. Try the Over Easy Ice brewed with
cinnamon, sweetened condensed milk and cardamom, all
with a mint garnish.
4031 N. 40th St. (just
south of Indian School Road), Phoenix; 602-468-
EGGS.
BL, $5-$8+
Palatte at the Cavness House
Remember Tera's Garden, that cute little specialty nursery in the old house at 4th Avenue and Fillmore, with plants spilling out into a lush patio and even in the parkway strips on both streets (hence her fight with the city and her ultimate closing)? Now the house and many of the landscape plants remain to give the newly opened Palatte at the Cavness House its farmhouse charm. (Before we go on further, Palatte is their spelling, but I'm not sure if it refers to "palate," meaning "intellectual taste," or "palette," "the colors used by a particular artist or for a particular painting," or, some combination of both ["pallet," the third spelling, appears to be out of the ballpark].) Be that as it may, Palatte is surely colorful and tasty in an intellectual way, so a trip there is de rigueur. Right now, in the heat of summer, indoor tables are scarce, especially later in the day, so you might have to share. In addition, standing in line to order is part of the process one that doesn't always turn out to be the most efficient but interaction with your fellow diners could be a plus. Breakfasts begin at 7 a.m., and feature egg "Mish Mashes," among others. We loved everything about ours called The Potato, which, along with its namesake, was loaded with spinach, bacon, caramelized sweet onions, and Gouda and Monterrey Jack cheeses. We sided it with ripe tomatoes and delicious raisin nut bread. We also tasted (maybe devoured is more like it) a lovely bowl of hearty Irish Steel Cut Oatmeal topped with caramelized bananas and Tahitian vanilla. In the interest of research (for you, dear reader) we also sampled an order of savory Chicken Apple Sausage sauteed with sweet red onions and served with multigrain bread. The other of the "we" tasters had a square of quiche-like sweet Caramelized Onion and crispy Bacon Tart, which came with choice of salad. He chose ripe seasonal tomatoes fresh from the farm, with capers and herbs scattered on top and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and crowned with curls of piquant shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. On another day I returned solo and had a hefty slow-braised grass-fed beef (you can taste the difference, you know) sandwich on a baguette with a generous slather of horseradish creme fraidche, fresh arugula and wonderful crisp shallot rings. This time the side was a fresh fruit medley of nectarines, plums, grapes, strawberries and refreshing mint leaves. Taking the downtown by storm, this is now the place for an artistic breaky or lunch.
606 N. 4th Ave.; www.downtownbrunch.com/menu1.cfm.
BL, $4-$6, Closed Sat. and Sun.
Papa Christo's
Good food served quickly is almost an anomaly in the glass and steel jungle we call downtown Phoenix. Papa comes to the rescue with an Italian-influenced line of pastas, sandwiches and salads, and a pretty reasonable prices, too. Sit inside elbow to elbow with your fellow man (could be good or bad...depending), or outside in a pleasant patio, weather permitting.
2 N. Central Av. (in Renaissance Square), Phoenix, 602-261-7780.
open 24 hours, $3-$7, SV
Philadelphia Sandwich Company
Say you find yourself in Scottsdale at 4 in the am (louder, I can't hear you. Are you asleep?) and you have the munchies. What does your average Denny'sphobian do? Head on over to where Scottsdale Road joins 5th Avenue; there you will find the newly opened PSC, whose hours just happen to be 24. Breakfast Sandwiches are just beginning to be served (until 10am), so you get yourself an Egg Sandwich with Cheese (your choice) and Bacon or Sausage. You're now $3.25 lighter (probably a pound or two heavier) and totally satisfied. At other times or even breakfast time, if you so desire the overstuffed meat sandwiches on lovely crusted Italian rolls are de rigueur. Multiple versions of Steak Sandwiches, of course, but also permutations of Roast Beef, Roast Pork and Chicken Cutlet are very popular. Certainly one of the most interesting, and utterly juicy and delicious, is the Italiano: one of the above meats with Sharp Provolone (not really that sharp) and Broccoli Rabe or Spinach. The Chicken is breaded, but the other meats are naturally au jus, which soaks the roll with intense flavor. Yes, they serve Burgers and Hot Dogs, but why not try a fabulous Meatball Sandwich, or the outrageous (but traditional) 2nd Street (French Fries, Mayo and Cheese, Toasted). Like Prosciutto? Theirs is imported, and is featured in the Passyank Ave with Roasted Peppers, Mozzarella, Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar, in addition to a couple of others. Right off the boat is the Italian Brand Tuna in Olive Oil and Seasonings, here titled Penns Landing (Philly is in Penns, remember?). There are three fat Cold Hoagies offered as well. Generous orders of Fries (French, Cheese and Pizza), Rings and Mushrooms, in addition to Mozzarella Sticks and Jalapeño Poppers, hot out of the deep fryer, can be had ($3-$4.50) for those with ravenous appetites, or maybe to share some with friends. You probably will have made some new ones by the time you finish your meal.
7158 E. Fifth Ave., Scottsdale, 480-970-1102. Fax 480-970-1312. www.phillysandwichco.com.
LD, $7-$15+
Phoenix BBQ & Deli
Although their slogan "Smoked Slooowly Served Quick" might not be great English, their barbecue certainly is (great, not English)! Portions are generous, service is friendly and as helpful as can be, and the meat has such a nice smoky taste, their tangy sauce is truly an option. Sides such as Red Beans and Rice, Onion Rings and BBQ Beans are terrific ... the Coleslaw and Potato Salad, not as much. Even if you're not a "Q" fan, you'll find a fine cornmeal battered Catfish Dinner, Burgers, and hot and cold sandwiches, many with an Italian bent. The Combo Meals and Dinner Specials are real bargains.
5010 W. Olive Ave.; 623-930-7424; www.phxbbq.com.
LD, $9-$20+, closed Sun.
Portland's
Cool, current and chic, this popular restaurant, art gallery and wine bar anchors the southwest corner of Portland and Central, and, weather permitting, the outdoor patio has pleasant views of the park and the library. Portland's is one of a growing number of eateries that support our local organic growers whenever possible a win-win-win situation. Here when you get a Caprice, it's with Sunizona vine ripe tomatoes, not the tasteless garbage so often found elsewhere. And the fresh Mozzarella really is! I love the Diver Scallops with citrus butter sauce and an incredible sweet potato polenta, and the PEI Mussels in their sassy wine and ginger sauce. At lunchtime, Eggplant Napoleon is a wise choice. Dinner features Black Wing Farms Grilled Ostrich Tenderloin in a Bing cherry demi-glaze and Phyllo Chicken Baked with Buttermilk Blue Cheese, among others. Even if you just come for coffee and dessert, you must try the Chocolate Macadamia Nut Torte.
105 W. Portland St., Phoenix, 602-795-7480. Fax 602-795-5354.
LD, $7-$15+
Reata Pass Steakhouse
What could possibly be more pleasant on balmy nights (they're even balmier at this high altitude) than sitting on a patio in the desert under a starry, starry sky, having a great steak dinner and listening to the music of a country band. "Rustic," "western," "casual," "delicious," and "fun" are the five words that best describe this rural anomaly, which is far superior to its commercial neighbor where tour busses bring hordes of folks to gawk at tie-stubs hanging from the ceiling. Better to go two more turns down the highway, until you get to the former stage coach stop opposite the old wooden water tower. Here you will find some of the tastiest steaks allowed by law, as well as super-flavorful, fall-off-the-bone pork ribs, pork chops and chicken. Don't expect these cowpokes to know how to made a good salad (lettuce didn't exactly thrive on the range, you know), but they do an admirable job with buns, bakers, and beans. And you'll be amazed how good an old-fashioned hot apple pie tastes with a scoop of cinnamon swirl ice cream as you watch the moon rise over the mountains.
27500 N. Alma School Pkwy, Scottsdale, 480-585-7277.
LD, $6-$10
Red Tomato
This hard to find genre a bar that serves good food specializes in deep-dish pizzas that will knock your socks off. Yes, they have the usual bar food, mostly stuff thrown in the deep fryer, and a variety of wings (try the Thai Princess, even if you're a queen), but there is much more. The Rib Bites have lots of bones, but you'll make no bones over their spices and sauces (Zeus Ribs, my favorite, has lemon and oregano, along with Red's secret sauce), and four styles of Fries (Poutine, with its home-style gravy and lots of cheese, is messy and yummy). Sample from their quartet of breads, too (Tasty Triangles uses their pizza dough [why not?] brushed with sauce and sprinkled with Parmesan, mozzarella and feta cheeses), some nice Salads and "Toasty" Subs, an appetizing but not earth-shattering group. But, the head of the must-have list has a pizza (five sizes, from Personal [8"] to Huge [18"]) with your name on it. Mine was Popeye & Feta, full of sundried tomatoes, black olives and pesto, along with its namesakes, in a molten mass of four cheeses. The crust is light and thin, but doesn't give way when it's picked up. If you can, leave some room for Half-Baked Heaven, warm, barely cooked, gooey cookie dough with a scoop of ice cream on top.
4801 E. Indian School Road, Suite #1, Phoenix, 602-954-1333.
BLD, $7-$15+
Richardson's
Like stepping into a restaurant in old Santa Fe, the food here is hot (but doesn't have to be spicy hot). Chamayo Chicken; Pork, Cheese, Smoked Turkey or Beef Tenderlion Rellenos; and Carne Adovada all are fabulous, and very filling. If the wait is too long here, try their more intimate Dick's Bar & Restaurant around the corner for the same great cuisine.
1582 E. Bethany Home Road, Phoenix, 602-265-5886. Fax 602-241-3354.
D, $4-$9+, closed Mon.
The Roosevelt
A cozy cottage with a lively crowd, Matt Pool (of Matt's Big Breakfast fame) has another winner with this cold beer (a dozen artisan brews on tap) and fine wine endeavor that just opened last week. "Snacks" are served in all the little nooks and crannies both indoors and out, and there's a communal table in the back room where you're all but guaranteed to meet someone who will be the topic of conversation for many weeks to follow. The eclectic menu runs from a Classic Shrimp Cocktail to Franks and Beans, with such goodies as a Big Fat Pretzel, Salads, Sandwiches (and a Grilled Cheese Sammie and Tomato Soup combo), a Cheese Platter and even a plate of sliced sugar-cured Ham and (three cage-free deviled) Eggs in between.
816 N. 3rd St.; 602-254-2561.
LD, $5-$14, closed Mon.
Ross's Hooked & Cooked
This little seafood/soul food joint in the 'hood (but well lighted at night) has terrific food, very attentive service and so many hard surfaces the walls, ceiling, tile floors, tables and chairs that small talk is virtually impossible if there is any kind of crowd. If it's lunchtime, go for the Shrimp Po' Boy, the Catfish Sandwich or the Southern Style Chicken & Waffles. After sundown, start off with Coconut Shrimp or sweet succulent homemade Crab Cakes, then get a bowlful of Seafood Gumbo or some juicy Smothered Chicken, with sweet cornbread and sides of savory macaroni & cheese, candied yams, cabbage or collard greens. Their dreamy Peach Cobbler will end your meal in style.
1301 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, 602-268-7677.
LD, $6-$8
Rumbi Island Grill
Next time you have an hour or so for a fast lunch, head over to Rumbi Island Grill to soak up their Hawaiian atmosphere and authentic fare. Start off with Bahama (oops, wrong island) Mama Tortilla (in Hawaii?) Soup, then proceed with Jamaican (wrong ocean) Jerk Chicken Sandwich, Salad or Rice Bowl or, perhaps the Calypso Spinach Salad. They do have very tasty Luau Pork, and to their credit, the Entree does come with the obligatory two scoops of white rice and one of macaroni salad. They even add a scoop of Asian Slaw, a bow to a major Hawaiian influence and western gluttony, and brown rice is a thoughtful option. Other meats include steak and shrimp, while veggies and tofu will placate the non-carnivores. Since they just opened, we expect rapid improvement in all sectors (except maybe geography), but the food already is quite palatable. Service is semi-self, and their part, so far, seems very disorganized. Speed up your lunchtime adventure by phoning or faxing in your order, especially for take-out.
4280 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602-224-0092.
LD, $9.99+
Satisfied Frog
If you find yourself up Cave Creek way on a Monday night, we suggest you tether your pony and head on in to the brother restaurant of the Horny Toad (different owners, but there's a long story that could go here if we had more room). On the first weekday they have a $9.99 super special (kids eat half price) of all-you-can-eat BBQ Beef Ribs, and these babies are tender, meaty, and fall-off-the-bone good, slathered with a sweet and tangy sauce. You can get them with fries, but we like their cowboy-style beans, and a pretty decent slaw to boot. Fer about three bills more (more or less), you can scarf down their salad bar too got to keep it somewhat healthy, you know. They also have a full menu, but we love their meaty bones. Of course there's only one drink to wash it all down with, Ed's Original Chili Beer. "We drink all we can and sell the rest" isn't their motto for nuthin'.
6245 E. Cave Creek Road, Cave Creek; 480-488-3317; www.chilibeer.com.
LD, $4.50-$9.50
Stacy’s Smokehouse
“New Times’ loss is Echo’s
gain,” the headline should read. For the few unaware, that
means that Stacy’s, which used to be across the street
from the weekly tabloid has just moved to within a mile
of the offices of that gorgeous glossy bi-weekly magazine,
Echo. Traffic-wise, it should be an excellent move
for the smokehouse with the motto “MMM NOW THAT’S
GOOD EATING.” What you’ll find here are lip smackin’ Rib
Tips and both Beef and Pork Ribs, Turkey and Ham, among
others, to pair up with the likes of fresh home-cooked
Cabbage, Yams, Greens, or Red Beans and Rice. Sandwiches
include Pork, BBQ Beef Brisket, Chicken and a Hot
Link: all are under five dollars! Fried Gizzards are no longer
on the menu, but with a day’s notice, Stacy will whip
up a batch of the best in town. Be sure to include a Peach
Cobbler or Sweet Potato Pie in your plans.
1650 E. Indian
School Road, Phoenix; 602-230-6724.
LD, $7-$14
Sonora Brewhouse
"Great Beer, Great Service and Great Food" is their motto, and it pretty much covers most of the bases here. A cute little cottage venue with a delightful patio and cozy Brewer's Den amongst the fermenting giant kegs describes the rest. Start with a quesadilla (loaded, of course), followed with a Sonora Fajita Salad or an East Side Sonora Soaked (in their own Brewer's Den Amber) Bratwurst with sweet sauteed onions, sauerkraut and homemade beer mustard on a French baguette. The Homemade Bread Pudding with whiskey caramel sauce is far more than an afterthought.
322 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-279-8909. www.sonorabrewhouse.com.
LD, $7-$12
Sportsman's Fine Wines & Spirits
Tucked inside this exemplary purveyor of extraordinary wines and liquors is a cool retreat from the harsh outside world. Employing the finest of ingredients from prestigious local as well as international sources to assemble a small but select group of sandwiches, salads, and cheese platters, it is no surprise that this nearly surreptitious eatery attracts an upper crust clientele. Here Parma Prosciutto, Scottsdale Honey Mustard (wait 'til you taste this one!), Espressions Coffee Roastery and Willo Bakery are de rigueur simply because they're the best available. Be it Hummus, Bruschetta, a gloriously elemental Tomato Mozzarella Salad or Maitre de Fromage Selections (your own selection of gourmet cheese and pate, with guidance from their knowledgeable staff optional), you're bound to be delighted. All nine of the sandwiches are winners, but my faves are Wendy's Salmon, Scottish smoked salmon with crème fraiche, thin cucumber slices and a squirt of lime; Michael's Panini with Parma prosecution, cheddar, tomato, basil and Scottsdale honey mustard; and Les Halles, Madrange ham topped with sweet grilled onions under a melt of Gruyere cheese with a slather of Dijon. All come with a salad of fancy greens and tomato bits tossed in an entrancing vinaigrette, and a side of salty black olives. Additionally, there is a seven-fingered handful of meat and cheese platters, employing favorites such as Soppressata, Coppa, Mousse Truffle Pate and Pate Mediterranean paired with chic French Explorateur, Chaumes, St. Nectaire and St. Andre, Drunken Goat, Manchego and Grafton Cheddar cheeses, among others. Look for the likes of cornichons, mixed nuts, imported olives, nonpareil capers and apple pear chutney to complete these alluring platters, which run from $18 to $25 and easily would make a fine meal for four. A coffee bar and an extraordinary wine bar with "the Valley's best selection of wines by the glass and by the taste," complete this affable picture.
3205 East Camelback Rd., Phoenix, 602-955-7730. Fax 602-955-7739.
LD, $4-$8, Closed Sun. & Mon., SV
Stacy's
The digs are now a little fancier, but this eatery still houses a cook who knows how to put the soul in soul food. Most meats here are fried, barbecued, or grilled, and many are covered in thick but tasty gravies. But you won't find anything too down-on-the-farm, if you know what I mean. Those who can't live without an occasional odyssey of chitterlings or neck bones will have to look elsewhere, unless a mess of crunchy gizzards will satisfy your sense of adventure. What you will find here are lip smackin' Rib Tips and zippy Smothered Pork Chops, to pair up with the likes of fresh home-cooked Cabbage, Yams, Greens, or Red Beans & Rice. Sandwiches (which come with fries) include Catfish, BBQ Beef Brisket and a Beef Hot Link, are all under five dollars! Be sure to include a Peach Cobbler or Sweet Potato Pie in your plans.
1153 E. Jefferson St., Phoenix, 602-254-1736.
LD, $3-$8
Stax Burger Bistro
Remember Ibiza, that cute restaurant run by Tom and Mark (now of Fez, Ticoz and Switch) that served those delicious tapas? Well, the guys from The Breakfast Club and The Bungalow thought they needed three in a row (think Monopoly), so they bought Ibiza and turned it into Stax, an unusual burger joint that serves Turkey, Lamb, Buffalo, Ostrich, Salmon and Veggie patties along with the more traditional Beef burgers. What makes it even more fun is the fact that these beauties are only about three or so ounces apiece (and priced $4 and $5 for exotic combos, $3-$5 solos). You can build your own with various cheeses, toppings, Aiolis, Tapenades, Chutneys and Relishes, for two-bits each (including such exotics as Pesto Aioli, Peach/Mint/Mango Chutney, Apple Bacon, Guacamole, and the like). Foie Gras is also available, but at $5. Of the sides ($4), the Short Rib Baked Beans are terrific; we enjoyed the SW Corn Off the Cobb Salad ($8), though we had to toss the ribbons of roasted corn relish, black beans, avocado, Monterrey jack and cheddar cheeses into the avocado buttermilk dressing, and had a nice basket of crunchy cornmeal batter-fried Rings ($3, also Totz and Sweet Pots). Our favorite burger? The Lamb with melted provolone, butter lettuce, topped with a peach/mint/mango chutney, and finished with pretty pink pickled shallot rings and chopped chives. For dessert ($5 each) we shared a funky version of Strawberry Shortcake, but I dare say the eye candy around the room was better. Next time we'll try the Butterscotch Creme Brulee.
4400 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-946-4222.
LD, $7-$19+
Stockyards Restaurant
An old fixture with a new face, it still takes cajones to eat the Calf Fries at least the first time. Repeat offenders should appreciate that they are readily available at lunch and dinner. This Phoenix landmark still has that old cattlemen's aura, and beef is still king.
5009 E. Washington St., Phoenix, 602-273-7378.
L, late D, $4-$7
Sugar Bowl
What's pink and white, pink and white, and pink and white? The Sugar Bowl, of course! And it's been that way (and a Scottsdale landmark) since former Mayor Sam was knee-high to a grasshopper. Naturally, it's had a few face-lifts in its existence, but the color theme has survived every hue and cry. Nor has the menu changed much over the years, although cracked wheat bread and similar trendy touches have been added. The meat loaf, one of the signature sandwiches, still is anchored firmly in its section, along with such traditional ones as ham salad and cream cheese with sliced stuffed green olives. And what would one of the soups or salads or fruit bowls be without the Sugar Bowl's famous Nut Bread with Cream Cheese. To many folks, however, the real reason to come here is for the ice cream. Sure, there's a great assortment of sodas, shakes, malts and floats, all made with premium Dreyer's, but the big and gooey combos are on what its reputation has been made. How about the three-scoop banana split (bananas are healthy, don't you know), with lots of syrup and nuts (nuts are healthy, too)? So, eat at the Sugar Bowl often if for no other reason than just for the health of it.
4005 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-946-0051.
D, $12-$20+
T-Bone Steak House
Of all the old West-style steak houses, this one is the closest from downtown to gallop out to, and the most authentic (least touristy) in town. As a bonus, once you get up that hill and turn around, there is a spectacular view of the Valley from the White Tanks to the Superstitions, with the cluster of skyscrapers plunked right in the middle. Fortunately, the view is not only from the parking lot, but extends throughout the restaurant through a bank of picture windows. If your timing allows, the ultimate plan is to get there just before sunset for one of the best shows in town. This place is popular with the deputies of the Sheriff's Department, who obviously know a good piece of meat when they see it. Actually, the food here is darned good by anyone's standards unless, of course, you're a vegetarian! Chicken eaters only get one choice, but, luckily, the mesquite-grilled bird happens to be done skillfully. But, beefeaters are king, and this joint has the steaks to prove it. I like the Porterhouse because one side is a tasty sirloin and the other a tender filet, plus there's enough for a meal the next day. The "bar" part of the accompanying "salad bar" is practically grounds for libel, but the cowboy style beans are tasty vittles. Coming in a few weeks: Mesquite Grilled Salmon and Corn on the Cob.
10037 S. 19th Ave. (S. slope of South Mountain), Phoenix, 602-276-0945.
BLD, $6-$20+
Taylor's Cafe
It's hard to be all things to all people, but this place sure gives it a try. Their Breakfast menu is enormous, and includes hard to find delicacies like a great Joe's Special and an Asian Crab Omelet. For Lunch there is a vast variety of soups, salads, lavoshes, burgers and sandwiches, highlighted by a Nemo Lavosh (smoked salmon, capers, fontina cheese and crème fraiche) and a Raspberry Goat Cheese Salad (with spinach, walnuts and jicama), just to name a couple. Dinner runs the gamut from light salads to a Bone-In Ribeye or Turffled Filet Mignon, but I love the Cherry Braised Pork Chops and Cognac Duck Breast even better. Begin with memorable PEI Mussels (in a dreamy creamy garlicky white wine sauce), and finish with Berries in yummy Whipped Cream. Most of their organic produce comes locally from McClendon's and One Windmill Farms. Wednesday's Live Jazz night is extremely popular, and goes on until 11pm. Dinner is not served on Sundays and Mondays.
5053 N. 44th St., Phoenix, 602-954-2666.
BLD, $6-$10+, closed Sat.-Sun.
Tom's Tavern & Restaurant
Every downtown worth their salt has a Tom's Tavern of some sort or another. This one has been serving three meals a day to the business community on weekdays for 78 years (not at the same location, but within the downtown core), making it one of the oldest in town. The very traditional looking venue includes a full bar, dining room and small banquet room in back, and serves a typical variety of appetizers, sandwiches, salads and entrees, going beyond bar food, but staying far away from the experimental stratosphere. The Blue Plate Special of the day is always a good route to take, and they are real proud of their famous 1929 chili recipe. Their hot sandwiches (beef, turkey and meat loaf) are delicious, and they have a nice variety of burgers and melts, but I somehow more than not have to have my Carolina Pulled BBQ Chicken Sandwich (they use a super tasty mustard-based sauce), topped with coleslaw and served with the best (they even proclaim them as that) curly fries you've ever had, or nine other choices for sides. Be sure to save some room for a martini sundae, which is tasty without making you tipsy.
2 North Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-257-1688. www.tomstavernphoenix.com.
LD, $9
Vintage Market at the Secret Garden
South Mountain (the part of town that roughly goes between Southern Avenue and the long pile of rocks topped with an antenna crown) has been getting a major makeover recently. Fields of houses have sprung up where fields of flowers used to reign, and the roads are being widened into stately boulevards. Shopping, which, just a couple of years ago, was practically non-existent in these parts, is now the sport of choice of the invading south-siders. Since 1929, the Strong Mansion has stood the test of time. However, after almost failing in recent years being used as a rooming house before being shuttered it too has finally had its makeover. Now the Spanish Colonial Revival mansion has morphed into a restaurant and event center, surrounded by lush gardens where brides and grooms can tie the knot, or folks can just relax over a gourmet salad or sandwich, while soothed by the trickling sounds of water. The restaurant part of this enterprise is run by Vintage Market, the elite wine and gourmet shop and eatery combination in the Biltmore, and, as such, the menu might suggest deja vu. Even if not, you'll want to become familiar with the likes of their Chicken Apple Sausage Fresh Baked Focaccia or the Turkey French Pocket with Raspberry Cream Cheese, Green Chilies and Mozzarella. There are many Sandwich combinations, all made with quality ingredients, but I think their real specialty is in the Salad department. Two of my very favorites are the Orchid Noodle (shrimp with pasta noodles, roasted pork, water chestnuts and bell peppers, with toasted sesame oil and garlic chili paste) and Tuna el Tonno (Albacore with white beans, onions, tomato, celery, fresh dill and lemon juice dressing). And there are eight more ravishingly delicious combinations. Can't make up your mind? Try the Sample Plate and get up to three choices for the same price. Then, just to make things even more interesting, there is a daily special salad and sandwich. I like Thursday's Salad of Asian Shrimp and Vegetables with a tangy Orange Sesame Sauce, and Friday's Mediterranean Focaccia Sandwich with Grilled Vegetables, Spinach, Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Caper Mayonnaise.
2501 E. Baseline Road, Phoenix, 602-276-4554.
LD, $5-$13
VooDoo Daddy's Magic Kitchen
VooDoo Daddy's fills an East Valley void in both a delicious and economical way. Inside, it's divided into a bayou roadhouse and a Bourbon St. scene, complete with requisite "courtyard." By-and-large, the menu is self-explanatory and really doesn't head into uncharted waters. Yes, Alligator isn't your everyday fare, but the listing plainly explains that the "marinated chunks (are) dusted in cornmeal and fried in peanut oil." Your server tell you it's one of the most frequently ordered appetizers, along with a savory Shrimp Remoulade, succulent Crab Cakes and a rich Crawfish Pistolette (Etouffee stuffed into a hybrid of a Cajun roll and a deep fried cruller. Sassy Mondo Wings in a spicy-sweet garlic sauce and Boudin (a rice and pork based soft sausage imported from Louisiana) have a wonderful zippy bite. Perfect for lunch (or even a lighter dinner) are the Po' Boys and Muffalettas. We loved the plump, cornmeal coated Fried Oyster version, but the Cajun Prime Rib was indeed a fabulous surprise, especially in combo with that perky sauce. The accompanying crisp and thin homemade Potato Chips, generously sprinkled with hot Cajun seasoning, were masterful, but, so was a generous tangle of naturally honeyed, julienne-cut Sweet Potato Fries. And, did I mention the kick-ass Red Beans and Rice, so loaded with onions, ham hocks and Andouille sausage bits, the large bowl with a wedge of Southern-style cornbread makes for a very satisfying meal. Dinner entrees include Crawfish Etouffee, rich and brimming with sweet tails, perfectly spiced like in the Bayou country, and, a little lighter, but even better tasting, the VooDoo Shrimp. Don't overlook the Fried Catfish, a moist and mild large fillet with a golden cornmeal crust. Simply marvelous! The Alligator Sauce Piquante, a melange of slightly gamy marinated alligator sausage chunks, piquant green olives, and peppery Andouille sausage, all in a sharp tomato-based sauce is a little more adventuresome. Perhaps the spiciest dish on the menu was the Onion Smothered Pork Chop, served under its mantle of onion gravy that must have witnessed a battle between a peppermill and a bottle of Tabasco sauce.
1706 E. Warner Rd. (NW corner at McClintock), Tempe, 480-897-8660.
LD, $5-$12
Waldo's BBQ
With a slo-o-o-o-w 24 hour smoke job, all of their meats are fall-off-the-bone tender and decidedly smoky. Sandwiches include the usual plus a very unusual BBQ Burro. Ribs and chicken are still juicy, but are aided by a tangy sauce. The sides show some imagination, with horseradish mashed spuds and deep fried corn-on-the-cob. Bottomless iced tea comes in a huge Mason jar.
4500 E. Main St., Mesa, 480-807-8646.
LD, $4.50-$10+, closed Sun.
Who's Ya Daddy's Bar B-Q
A tiny hole-in-the-wall real southern BBQ joint with a good smoker but a rather one-dimensional sauce. That's okay, the ribs really don't need any sauce anyway, the hot link is real tasty, and the beef and chicken are terrific, especially in the $1.50 tacos, 2 or 3 of which can make a darned good lunch. Tasty beans, but no slaw. Pineapple upside down cake is sweet and gooey.
1619 E. Washington St., 602-252-3118.
LD, $5-$9, SV
Wild Noodles
Chef Eddie Matney, a culinary icon of Valleyites for well over a decade, in conjunction with Dave Andrea (of Old Town Tortilla Factory fame), opened a brisk food eatery (not as fast as fast food, but not as slow as most) in Scottsdale a few years ago. After getting the formula down to a science, they opened it up to franchises. This, an independently owned operation, is the only one currently in the Valley. Here a large ceramic bowl supplants the Colonel's cardboard bucket (unless it's intended for takeout, where Styrofoam is king), and when filled with pasta and kindred accompaniments, makes a glorious one-dish meal at a deceptively plebian price. With scarcely more than a baker's dozen noodle bowls, not every area of the earth has been covered, and those that have been receive more of a stylized version than a completely authentic one. In other words, some liberties have been taken for the sake of expediency and universal taste buds. This is a good thing. If you must have a bona fide Pad Thai, go to Malee's or Thai Lahna. But, if you're in the mood for a dish with those flavors, Eddie's Thai Rice Noodles will make you happy as a clam and your buddy, in the very same restaurant, can have the Mac & Cheese he has been yearning for. (Do not attempt this trick at Malee's or Thai Lahna!) The pasta headings are Asia, America and Italy. There are salads, too, for those on Atkins or just not in the mood for starches.
325 W. Elliot Road (at Kyrene), Tempe, 480-598-5900.
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