LD, $5-$12
A Taste of Soul
Out of the skillet and into the fire, this small soul food restaurant has moved to bigger digs — in a bowling alley? You still can get all your favorites: Cajun Style Catfish, Ribs (and wonderful Rib Tips), Fried Chicken, Pork Chops, Hot Links and Gumbo, but now they also have daily specials like Monday's Liver and Onions, Wednesday's Spaghetti and Meat Sauce and Thursday's Neck Bones, Cabbage, Red Beans and Rice, all at $6.95 at lunch time. Their sides are exceptional, and a combo of three or four would make a lovely meal. Yes, there are lots of starches (this is soul food, after all) like Corn, Dirty Rice, Potato Salad, Macaroni and Cheese, Red Beans & Rice, and Yams in season (when is the last time you had them from scratch?), but the kitchen also does magic to the likes of Green Beans, Greens, Cabbage and Jambalaya. Finish with Peach Cobbler (if any is left), Sweet Potato Pie (if any is left), or their very special Red Velvet/German Chocolate.
8925 N. 12th Street (inside Sunset Bowling); 602-944-1543.
LD, $7-$15+
Alice Cooper'stown
In the (very early morning) shadow of Chase Ballpark, this multileveled-converted warehouse can really swing when there's a game in one of the neighboring venues. A giant wall of monitors brings sports just shy of an I-Max equivalent. The decor is funky and freewheeling, with images and articles of Alice omnipresent. Surprisingly, for a joint like this, the food is pretty darned good, especially the barbecue. In fact, they serve a BBQ Feast fit for a king and at least two queens. They claim the under $30 ensemble feeds two, but I think they must be linebackers. We have stretched it to four, and no one went away from the table the least bit hungry. After all, it includes St. Louis pork ribs, pulled pork, hot links, half a barbecued chicken, smoked turkey and beef brisket. Of course, man cannot live on meat alone, so they also include hefty portions of crispy fries, coleslaw, garlic-mashed potatoes and baked beans. Anyone not completely stuffed can get Chef Saul's Dessert Taco, stuffed with sliced bananas and cheesecake, then lightly fried and topped with rich cinnamon ice cream and gooey caramel sauce. Other neat scenarios include a huge tangle of Shep's Onion Strings, the spicy Chicken and Sausage Gumbo (hidden on the menu under Fields of Greens), The Big Unit Hot Dog, (two feet of one hundred percent beef) or Mom's Tuna Casserole topped with baked potato chips and Parmesan cheese. Next time, before or after the game, play with Alice.
101 E. Jackson St., Phoenix, 602-253-7337.
BL, $4-$7
Arcadia Farms at the Heard
On the Heard Museum grounds, this small cafe serves sandwich and salad lunches with a light southwestern twist, both indoors and in the lovely courtyard amid native flora and a splashing fountain. Nice and light (but not skimpy) is the Strawberry Chicken Salad where grilled breast meet meets orchard, aided and abetted by toasted almonds, on a crisp heap of baby mixed lettuces with a homemade poppy seed dressing. The Pesto Grilled Shrimp Salad has marinated crustaceans with creamy diced avocado, baby tomatoes and tangy white California goat cheese tossed in a unique grilled corn citrus vinaigrette, crowned with frizzled tortillas. For a nice variety, try the Chop Chop Vegetable Salad based on shredded Romaine and dancing with roasted corn and carrots, sliced mushrooms, grilled zucchini, kalamata olives, blue cheese, peanuts and raisins, all under the influence of a delightful creamy vinaigrette. Then there's my favorite, the Raspberry Goat Cheese, featuring pistachio crusted Sonoma goat cheese, sweet-tart berries and candied pecans. Sandwiches, which come with a fine mixed organic greens or a red potato salad, are highlighted by one of fresh mozzarella, red ripe tomatoes and fragrant basil leaves (further enhanced by a pesto vinaigrette) on delicious ciabatta bread. Perfect for two hands is a country smoked ham with Havarti and a splash of red onion chutney on a rustic roll slathered with whole grain mustard as well as one of Albacore with roasted pecans, jicama and green onions, jazzed up with pea shoots, purple cabbage and cucumbers, on sunflower wheat bread. Had enough of organic? Try the rich desserts — they're orgasmic.
2301 N. Central Ave. (at the Heard Museum), Phoenix, 602-251-0204.
LD, $3-$9
Arizona Native Frybread
Remember how the Arizona State Fair had one Indian Frybread Booth that was so much better than all the others? It was the one with the lineup of customers waiting to devour those golden disks of puffy, chewy native bread topped with chili or even the sweet version sprinkled with cinnamon, sugar and chocolate syrup, while all the other stands had no waiting at all. Well, now you can get your frybread fix daily instead of waiting for a whole year, since Robert Gilson, a White Mountain Apache, and brothers Sean and Dewayne Lewis, originally from Klagetoh, AZ, have made their Mesa stand. Don't look for atmosphere (except for the wonderful native music piped in), but do look for the most authentic and tasty food of its ilk. You'll find both the Navajo and Apache Tacos as well as Red or Green Chili topped ones. The dessert version can also be dripping with honey and butter, if you choose, and those sweet things (even peanut butter and jelly!) can be put atop a Native Tortilla, thicker and larger than the South of the Border disks we're used to. Tribal Burgers have one or two patties of ground sirloin with fixin's like fire roasted green chilies, red onions and such, and lamb is found in the Navajo Hominy (Red Chili) Stew and the Navajo Lamb Sandwich, your choice of frybread or tortilla. One more dish, a perennial blackboard listing, is a plate of four Mutton Ribs (very flavorsome, but dentally challenging) served with an incredibly delicious mixture of slowly sauteed onions, green and yellow squash and some simple seasonings, and, of course, a scrumptious round of frybread. Healthy never tasted so good! Oh, and don't be surprised if their Native Herbal Tea becomes addicting. Be aware, however, that they close early (6pm) on Sundays.
1437 E. Main St., Mesa; 480-649-1314; www.aznativefrybread.com.
L, $4-$6, closed Sat.-Mon.
Artichoke Grill
You don't have to be a rocket scientist — or any kind of scientist — to enjoy the surprisingly well conceived and prepared lunches here. You do, however, have to find the Applied Science building, on the east side of Scottsdale Community College's campus, to be able to partake of this fabulous bargain. Additionally, you must call to make a reservation, as seating is limited and food is only served between 11:30am and 1pm. The students do all the prep and cooking, serving and bussing, and even greet you at the door and graciously lead you to your table. A shared reception area separates the lunch-only Artichoke Grill from her sister, the Desert Oasis, a dinner-only room. The Grill's soft colors are food inspired: cantaloupe, watermelon, and pink grapefruit. Vibrant hued paintings, also done by SCC students (and priced for sale), adorn the walls. The menu rotates on a weekly basis, so the meals we had will most probably not be available when you go, but they will give you an idea as to the scope of the offerings. And, you'll be amazed at the reasonable prices, allowing multi-course meals to frugally be amassed. We sampled a fine Warm Lamb Salad, a Cold Strawberry Bisque and a Duck Consomme, with its pasta pouch of dark meat with Oriental seasonings. Even the breadbasket contained treasures of Cranberry Scones and Sesame Crowned Whole Wheat Buns. Delicious sandwiches include a thin-sliced Roast Beef with Bleu Cheese and Red Pepper Oil and a Spiced Roast Pork with Port Wine Jus and Apple Cinnamon Chutney. Entrees feature the likes of Charred Escalope of Salmon with Confit of Mushrooms; Seafood Cakes with Caper Sauce, Braised Leeks and Tomato Salsa; and Honey Roasted Chicken with Sage and Pecans over a sea of Braised Red Cabbage. For dessert, their Boston Cream Pie was one of the best I've had in recent history, while the Raspberry Phyllo Pouch hiding a center of intense Raspberry Mouse, Nuts, and heavenly White Chocolate compares favorably with high price contenders at neighboring upper-scale eateries.
9000 E. Chaparral Rd. (Scottsdale Community College), Scottsdale, 480-423-6284. Fax 480-423-6091.
LD, $4-$14, SV
AZ 88
This Scottsdale Mall restaurant and bar, with its strategic location and eclectic decor, is one of the hottest places to see and be seen in Scottsdale. Leading the fire brigade on the menu are the bleu cheese mitigated Hell's Fire Fries, Elsa's Chicken with pecans and honey mustard sauce, and Hot Pepper Chicken augmented with jalapeño peppers and marinated in lime juice and honey. AZ 88 can also be cool as a cucumber, as evidenced by the Picnic Chicken, featuring a cold sliced breast matched with sliced pears, Gorgonzola cheese, pecan halves and Romaine spears on marbled pumpernickel, served with a flotilla of fresh fruits. Fancy a grilled cheese sandwich with thick-sliced bacon and tomato made much fancier with the presence of American, Cheddar, Colby and Swiss cheeses. There is a great Grilled Vegetables plate, a fat and juicy burger (try au Poivre, with peppercorns and sauteed in burgundy sauce), a seared, rare Tuna Niçoise plate (just like the salad without the lettuce) and St. Petersburg Potatoes (waffle fries crowned with sour cream, cream cheese, radish, onion, cucumber, and Scottish smoked salmon). Salads are fresh, crisp, and generous. How generous are they? Well, the "dinette sized" Chopped Salad is enough to feed the average person as a main dish! (The regular size must have a hard time fitting on the table.) And with the calories saved, the Turtle Cheesecake with huge pecans, real butterscotch and thick, hot fudge could just sneak in under the daily allotment. Toast to your good fortune for finding this place with everything from a perfect martini to a New York Egg Cream. Unfortunately, lunches are not served on weekends.
7353 Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale, 480-994-5576.
D, $7-$15+
Bandera
At and above the upper range of our price scale — and worth every penny of it — this place is so good I had to include it. Unfortunately, it's not just our little secret, so the wait is often more than an hour, and you can't even make a reservation! Regulars wile away the time at the horseshoe-shaped bar, eating anything from an Iron-Skillet full of roasted corn Corn Bread to the "Macho" Salad, a unique combination of roasted chicken, dates, avocado and tomatoes with Romaine, arugula and corn bread croutons, topped with goat cheese for a sweet, tart, tangy and crunchy taste sensation. The menu includes meaty and tender BBQ Beef Back Ribs, slathered with a beautifully balanced barbecue sauce, and paired with Roasted Peanut Coleslaw. The house specials are a carefully crafted, juicy Wood Fired Spit Roasted Chicken and the Sliced Leg of Lamb, actually thinly sliced into many pieces after being marinated and rotisserie roasted for hours on end. The Wild Mushroom Meatloaf, alas, is ancient history — except as an occasional special; however, the kitchen's innovative Famous Mashed Potatoes, which come with the rotisseried and beef items, are still beyond comparison. Carnivore alternatives include a Chicken Enchilada Platter with "Green" Rice and Escabeche, The Vegetable Platter (which now includes a Grilled Artichoke), and Seattle Style BBQ Salmon. The quintessential preparation of a much abused fish, the Sterling filet is marinated in soy sauce, garlic, and turbinato sugar to enhance — not obscure — its delicate flavor. Of the three desserts listed, I can vouch that the housemade concoction of creamy vanilla ice cream with Oreo chips sandwiched between two homemade Oreo crusts, swimming in a sea of bittersweet fudge syrup and crowned with a super-duper sized dollop of freshly made whipped cream, is spectacular!
3821 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-994-3524.
L, $5-$7, Closed Sat. & Sun.
The Barbecue Company's Grill & Cafe
When I first read the address of this place I thought there was a typo. Maybe it's North 36th St., or 36th Ave., or something. Nope! Have faith and ye shall be rewarded. However, although the two rooms hold lots of hungry folks, you still might have to wait a while to receive it. This may be the south side's best kept secret from the Yankees to the north; nevertheless, every local doing business within miles must eat here regularly. There were collars of all colors: White, blue, none ... and even lavender. Lot's of them come for the succulent barbecued ribs, chicken, turkey, brisket, and pulled pork, but some of the other worthwhile dishes might surprise you. To begin with, this kitchen puts out a rockin' Tortilla Chicken Chowder. Add cilantro and ancho to the Caesar dressing, and you now have their terrific Southwest Caesar Salad. The Salsalita Chicken sandwich has the bird marinating in salsa fresca, olive oil, cilantro, garlic and their own Roarin' Sonoran Southwest Seasoning, then grilled and topped with pico de gallo. The Smoked Pepper Ham contains its namesake that has been glazed with brown sugar, maple syrup, southern style molasses, and cinnamon. For vegetarians (and others) there is a sandwich of grilled zucchini, yellow squash, peppers and purple onions, sprinkled with Balsamic vinaigrette with cilantro and garlic and topped with melted smoked Gouda. The Kentucky Bleu Cheese Slaw is novel — you decide if it works for you. And don't pass up desserts, either, especially if it's homemade the flan.
4636 S. 36th St., Phoenix, 602-243-3771. Fax 602-243-9043.
LD, $4.50-$12+, closed Sun.
Big City BBQ
If you like barbecue, soul food, or just friendly people serving generous portions of delicious, reasonably priced food, you're gonna love this place. The delightful nuance of pecan smoke permeates all the tender meats, and the sauce is more sassy than hot (Tabasco is available for those who crave it). The hefty pork spareribs are loaded with tender, almost fall-off-the-bone meat, and the honey-rubbed ham is something else! The Louisiana red-hot links are full of flavor, but do need a touch of the red stuff to suit me. Bargains abound, with two-hand sandwiches starting at a mere $4.49, Catfish Po'Boys $5.49, or an order of Rib Tips just four bits more. One Meat Dinners are plenty for the average person, coming with two sides and a big square of crumbly corn bread. All the sides we sampled were terrific, especially the Fried Okra, Brown Sugar Baked Beans, Southern Mixed Greens and Candied Yams. I dare anyone to finish the Three Meat Dinners. If Fried Chicken or Pork Chops isn't fattening enough for you, they serve both of those smothered as well. Those dinners also come with two sides and cornbread. Pile on the carbs with Rice and Gravy and Mac'-n-Cheese if you will, but be sure to save room for Pecan Pie (or Peach Cobbler or Sweet Potato Pie, they're all sensational).
5118 S. Rural Road (NW corner at Baseline), Tempe, 480-756-5702. Fax 480-756-5703. www.bigcitybbq.com.
(early)BLD, $5-$14, SV
Black Bear Diner
You bearly get out of your car and walk up toward the entrance and whammo — you come upon the first of enumerable bears at this California import, which packs 'em in by the droves. What's the big lure? Lots of well-prepared comfort food at very reasonable prices in thematically decorated but relaxed surroundings served by an enthusiastic young waitstaff, and bears, bears and more bears. If you have a wait, there is an interesting (bear themed) gift store to examine and while away the time, and a handsome mural (with bears, of course!) to admire while dining. Breakfasts begin at 6am, and include all the usuals plus a whole section of Black Bear Scrambles. We like Joe Bear's seasoned ground beef, fresh spinach, onions and sausage, served over country red diced potatoes and covered with cheese. The lady bear might munch on Fruit Cakes, a trio of cakes (or, for $1 more, 7-grain almond granola pancakes) loaded with blackberries, strawberries or blueberries, sprinkled with powdered sugar and topped with whipped cream. And the big bear will surely appreciate the Bigfoot: a chicken-fried steak smothered with fresh country gravy, three eggs, a mound of hash browns and a pair of homemade biscuits. At lunchtime try a Bacon Bleu Burger, a Broiled Chicken and Avocado Club Sandwich or a Grilled Southwestern Steak Salad with Ancho-Cilantro Ranch Dressing. After sundown some of the best bets include the awesome Mikey's Chicken Pot Pie, Grilled Fresh Dill Wild Salmon (what bear wouldn't love that?), Stuffed Breasts of Chicken (with Broccoli and Jack Cheese, covered in Hollandaise) or the Cluck & Buck (a combo of Rosemary Chicken and Santa Maria Style Tri-Tip). Dinners come with two sides, one of which should be their absolutely yummy Linguica Baked Beans. (Actually, everything on the entire menu is served from opening to closing.) Young folks over sixty (and there are lots of them here) get slightly smaller meals at reduced prices on the many Senior items listed on the menu. If you love bears — or just what they eat — this is the place for you.
6039 West Bell Road, Glendale, 602-843-1921. www.blackbeardiner.com.
BLD, $4-$15+
The Boat House
Mostly a breakfast and lunch type of place, the evening folks come for primarily for drinks and entertainment (though they do have a couple of nightly specials), and the most peaceful lakeside setting in the Valley. Let your cares melt away, as serenity abounds here.
5394 S. Lakeshore Drive, Tempe, 80-820-0660.
D $7-$13
Bobby C's
Say you're downtown, it's 1am on a weekend, and you're hungry as heck. What to do? Head to Bobby C's. This neighborhood bar has a kitchen (and a staff) with soul. Start with big, juicy, golden brown Fried Wings or the Catfish Nuggets. Like 'em spicy? Get the Buffalo Wings or the Buffalo Shrimp. For the main dish, there's Fried Chicken, Chicken Fried Chicken and Baked Chicken, as well as Chicken Fried Steak. Pork Chops come grilled or smothered, and there's Hot Links and Meat Loaf. Barbecued Pork Ribs are special to Wednesdays only, and Sundays feature is Gumbo. Sides of Greens, Yams, Black Eyed Peas, Dirty Rice and Mac & Cheese will keep you coming back for more. If they haven't run out, be sure to try their homemade Peach Cobbler.
1140 E. Washington St., Phoenix, 602-252-2273.
L, $4-$7, SV
BoEATos
It's a wrap, and a mighty good one. That's the specialty here, in this restaurant/bar just south of Changing Hands bookstore. The wrappers of Wheat, Tomato Basil, Flour, and jalapeño Cilantro do more than provide a container. They actually add a lot of taste to the concoctions, which run the gamut from Oriental to regional American to European to Mexican in general content. Black Beans and/or Guacamole make good sidekicks. Burgers, Sandwiches and Salads placate those with less adventurous tastes. Dinners are not served Monday thru Wednesday.
6430 S. McClintock, Tempe, 480-838-6300. Fax 480-838-6333.
BL(early)D, $5-$7
BreadCrafters Bakery & Café
If bread is the very foundation of the sandwich, it is important for the bread's quality to be as good as possible. Having a bakery on the premises is a major coup to any serious sandwich making-institution. That way the Focaccia Provencale can arrive on a fresh herb foccacia and the Prima Italian can boast of being contained by a real ciabatta. What would a Park Avenue be without raisin walnut (or pecan bread)? A Bavarian or Garden Run would be flat without a multi-grain Alsatian. Although you can make up your own, all the combos seem to have a little local twist. Take the Tuna Piquant. Instead of just Charlie-and-mayo, this one has capers and fresh herbs, bound with a lemony dressing, and sits pretty on tomatoes and field greens atop freshly baked green olive bread. Add a soup of the day and an array of sensational salads and you have the perfect place to placate those midday hunger pangs. Watch out for even earlier closings on weekends.
12635 N. Tatum Blvd., Phoenix, 602-494-4442. Fax 602-494-4646.
LD, $4-$8
Cabela's Cactus Flats Cafe
Yesterday's cotton fields are now yielding far more handsome profits from the explosive growth of the Cardinal's sleek stadium and the surrounding new retail establishments springing up like weeds after a summer's storm. Not the least of these is an enormous freestanding 160,000 square foot monument to everything hunting and fishing called Cabela's, the 16th of a national chain, the first in the Valley. Modestly billed by its corporate as the "World's Foremost Outfitter," it is predicted that over three million visitors will pass through its doors within the first year, scoping out their tents, boats, firearms, clothing, home furnishings and the like. There's also a general store, a laser shooting gallery, a museum, a walk-through aquarium and over 400 stuffed animals ranging in size from a mouse to an elephant, most of which reside on three-story Conservation Mountain. Near the top, overlooking many of these mounted trophies, is a cafe that serves sandwiches and bratwursts made from the meat of their brethren. Yes, you can get Elk, Wild Boar and Bison (as well as Ostrich, which we did not note as a resident of this well-populated mountain). Sandwiches and juicy Bratwursts made flavorful from their Venison or Bison stuffings. They also have two terrific Chilies (the Chicken was one of the best I've ever had) and an enormous slab of tender Prime Rib (as a Sandwich) for $6.99! Those with plebeian tastes have hot dogs and the usual sandwiches to satiate their hunger. The desserts are almost ugly, but we shared a downright yummy Chocolate Cake coated with a soft marshmallow frosting layered with cherries. With prices this low, you might think of this restaurant in the most charitable of terms. Don't worry, they make up for it elsewhere in the store.
9380 W. Glendale Ave., 623-872-6700.
LD, $6-$8
Cajun Seafood Corner
Part bar, part restaurant, this new New Orleans outpost boasts handmade foods and friendly servers, all at prices you thought went out of style decades ago. With enough nautical touches to keep the atmosphere warm and woody, you're bound to like this comfortable venue for many reasons. Start with a bowl of Gumbo or a plate of Blazin' Shrimps Ceviche, unless you prefer their spicy imported Andouille Sausage. For the real aficionados, Crawfish and Head-on Shrimp (Original, Garlic Butter or Lemon Pepper) are available by the pound. For the nostalgic, Crawfish Etouffee and Mind Blowin' Jambalaya will hit the spot, and the Oyster Po' Boy was one of the best I've had in years. The Red Potatoes and Corn on the Cob are must-do sides, and (a new one on me) Banana Froster (sic) Bites will more than satisfy your sweet tooth for dessert. Beignets and Coffee (batter and beans imported from Cafe du Monde) are worth the small wait.
2051 S. Dobson Road, Mesa; 480-491-1680.
LD (late nite), $5-$15
Carlsbad Tavern
This place serves southwestern grub with flair, from the highly recommended Santa Fe Duck Ravioli to the Blue Corn Enchiladas to the savory Lamb Pierna. The Green Chili Mashed Potatoes are to die for, and be sure to sample the Posole, which easily could be a meal in itself, and those who order the delectable Tequila Shrimp should be required to show ID before being served. Burgers and sandwiches are available for lighter meals, and come with a salad (try their fabulous jalapeño-bleu dressing!). Aside from the wonderful food and a wide variety of tequilas, the service is fast and friendly and the atmosphere is comfortable and casual. Our summer nights are just made for sitting by the small pond, sipping and sampling — and with space heaters, summer can be had almost all winter long.
3313 N. Hayden Road, Scottsdale, 480-970-8164. Fax 970-8129.
L(late)D, $6-$8, SV, closed Sun.
Carly's Bistro
When the Paisley Violin moved to the westside, Carly and crew removed the clutter, gave the place a coat or two of paint (think orange and turquoise) and put up a new sign. Now, with an emphasis on the healthy — and vegetarian, if you ask for it — the Mediterranean-inspired menu is a delight. For starters, the Olive Tapenade (a savory olive, garlic and caper spread) served with more olives, red peppers, pita wedges and grilled ciabatta bread, makes you feel like you're in the old country. The Soup of the day on my last outing was a sensational Creamy Red Pepper with pieces of soft-cooked onions and peppers for intensity. Sandwiches here run hot and cold (in temperature, not quality), with the Ex-Patriot being a prime example of the former. Turkey, melted Brie and tomatoes contrast nicely with the Sweet Onion Relish, all on chewy grilled Ciabatta, served with either Terra Chips or some of the best-darned Tabouli on the planet. Not the grassy-tasting stuff you find elsewhere, here the cracked wheat kernels have a completely refreshing lemony, minty flavor that makes me order this dish frequently. Another hot gem is the Europa, with marinated artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, tomatoes, spinach and smoked mozzarella, also on Ciabatta. Tuna stars in the cold Pain Bagne, along with olive oil, capers, grilled red peppers and tomatoes on a Kaiser, while the Tuna Nicoise is a near classic, missing the hard-cooked eggs and anchovies, but otherwise served with capers, green beans, tomatoes and a sassy Nicoise dressing. Don't overlook the Cape Cod Salad of spinach and walnuts, Gorgonzola, dried cranberries and apples, tossed with a sultry balsamic dressing. Despite the vegan part of the appellation, the Chocolate Mousse Pie is dreamy. Serving beer, wine and spirits.
128 E. Roosevelt St. (NW corner at 2nd St.), Phoenix, 602-262-2759.
LD, $4-$7, closed Sun.
Cheba Hut
Those who like things nice and toasty will be addicted to this offbeat type of sub factory. Their twist here is that the loaves, which come in modules of four inches (ie: four, eight and 12) are split lengthwise, covered with the meats and cheeses, then run through a conveyor-belted toaster. Most veggies, greens, and other plant materials are added later. Of the 20 combos offered, highlights include the Jamaican Red, with spicy grilled chicken, green bell peppers, jalapeños, black olives and cheddar cheese; the Hydro, which melts parmesan and provolone cheeses over mellow eggplant slices slathered with home-grown marinara and a couple of grinds of black pepper; and a smoked ham, Hawaiian pineapple and Swiss trio called a Pakalolo. A half-dozen ultra fresh salads complete the menu, and a cool selection of Sobas is an added plus.
960 W. University (at Hardy), Tempe, 480-446-0088. Fax 480-446-9605.
D, $10-$20+, closed Sun.
Chelsea's Kitchen
Old-fashioned American food like you wish your Mother could have made. Some dishes have a Southwest twist. An ideal meal would start with Chicken Nachitos Gratinee, then continue with Scott Newman's Short Rib Hash, and have a grand finale of Chocolate Destruction.
5040 N. 40th St., 602-957-2555.
LD, $6-$14+
Cheuvront Cheese and Wine Experience
No matter what your district or party affiliation, one visit and I'm sure you, too, will vote for Cheuvront. Even if you don't raise funds, you're sure to raise your libido with the likes of Poached Pear Salad, Lamb Roulade and the warm chocolate ganache cake, which is everything a chocoholic could desire in a dessert. A great selection of cheeses to go with a broad wine list. Lunch is not served on weekends.
1326 N. Central Ave., 602-307-0022, www.cheuvront.biz.
BL, $4-$10, SV, closed Sun.
City Bakery (Arcadia Farms) at Bentley Projects
I guess you might call Carolyn Ellis the Culture Maven. Fifteen years ago she opened Arcadia Farms, her first cafe, a block from the famous Main Street West art galleries in Scottsdale. Since that time she has expanded her empire to include venues in the Phoenix Art Museum, The Heard Museum, the Phoenix Zoo, and now (as of today, April 11) at the Bentley Projects, the downtown branch of Bentley Galleries. The setting is simple, slick and sophisticated. Service is semi-self, where you order from a counter and pick a table. A friendly waitperson will find you and deliver the goodies. And what glorious goodies these are! Even the simple Pan Bagnat (not to be confused with beignet), a sandwich of tuna salad with olives, capers, red onions, cucumbers and red peppers, topped with hardboiled eggs, has more flavors between the halves of its rustic roll than you'd think possible. Another melange that'll knock your socks off is the City Chop, a large salad of shredded lettuce, smoked turkey, Soppressata, salami, provolone, oven-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives and garbanzo beans, tossed with a scrumptious Italian vinaigrette. Chopped salads are really great, since you get such a range of ingredients in every forkful. This one is found at several better restaurants around town, but is still one of my favorites: a Turkey and (melted) Brie Sandwich with sliced apples and cranberry mustard slathered on its special cranberry-walnut bread. Muffulettas, especially ones like they serve at Central Grocery in New Orleans, are hard to find around town. This version comes close. Although you won't have olive oil dripping down the front of your shirt, it still tastes pretty authentic. The vegetarian in your party will appreciate the Mediterranean Melt, a mammoth mixture of marinated oven-cured tomatoes, portabella mushrooms, roasted yellow and red peppers, goat cheese, roasted artichokes, olive spread and hummus on a ciabatta roll; or a Caprese featuring thick sliced organic tomatoes with fresh mozzarella, basil, roasted artichoke hearts and pesto dressing. And, everyone will want to see why Arcadia's Strawberry Chicken Salad with toasted almonds and poppy seed dressing has become legendary. Also, don't forget that City's last name is Bakery. For breakfast there is a nice selection of scones, muffins, brownies, cookies and biscotti, but after your gourmet lunch, you've got to sample one of their Baby Cakes. There's a sweet little gem of chocolate, nuts and coconut, a nice tart Key Lime Pie, a luscious Peach Tart, and a Tuxedo (black and white) that I brought back to the office today. They went so fast they must have been inhaled! If you want to know how they keep them down on the farm, go to Arcadia's City Bakery. The answer might just be in their dessert case.
215 E. Grant St., Phoenix, 602-253-7200. Fax 602-253-4887. www.citybakeryaz.com.
LD, $6-$11
Coach and Willie's
BOB and AWA have been getting a lot of new neighbors lately. Sports fans get hungry, and there are gobs of them at a time, so quality, service and price can vary greatly in the shadow of these people-magnets. This place covers all those bases amazingly well, and has a multi-level patio with lots of stone and water features along with a beautiful dining room anchored with a circular bar in the center and lots of booths around the periphery that actually can seat six Sumo wrestlers without crowding! I would call the food American with a twist. The American part satisfies the majority of the sporting event masses, while the twist satisfies those with more of a sense of culinary adventure. Check out their signature Southwestern Corn Chowder, chock-full of roasted corn kernels awash in a mixture of heavy cream, bacon, chilies and Cajun spices (and "various secret spices"). The Chicken Caesar Pasta Salad is a generous blending of all three, and the Italian Nachos could feed a herd of Italian Stallions! The Crab Bread and the Prosciutto Wrapped Prawns deserve special kudos. A Bourbon Steak Flatbread Wrap is fantastic, with strips of filet, marinated in bourbon and sour mash whiskey, herbs and spices, rolled up with grilled onions and mushrooms, interspersed with melted cheese. We try two pasta dishes both with the richest cream sauce imaginable. Although they are delicious, they are so filling that neither the Italian Sausage and (wild) Mushroom Penne nor the Tequila Shrimp Linguine is done justice to ... until the next day, reheated. Fried Chicken, Meatloaf and Macaroni & Cheese are down-home staples not to be missed. As a finale, the Downtown Chocolate Brownie is a chocoholics delight with its double chocolate cake and dark ganache sauce, and the Caramelized Banana Calzone, filled with chunks of sweetened fruit and ricotta then doused in a praline caramel sauce surely will satisfy the most jaded sweet tooth in town.
412 S. 3rd St., Phoenix, 602-254-5272.
BLD, $4-$7
CoffeeTalk
Housed in a rainbow colored Victorian with an immense front patio, this is as much a funky, fun, comfortable coffee house as anything else. At night, entertainment provides a focus lacking in the daytime, but a quiet, casual lunch can be a lovely relaxing experience, although on hot days the limited number of indoor air-conditioned tables can be exceeded quickly. What could be a better summer luncheon fare than a perfectly seasoned curried chicken sandwich with red-skinned potato salad and an ice cold glass of lemonade? Pastries, coffees and teas (a nice selection) can go with or stand alone.
48 N. Robson, Mesa, 480-844-2353. Fax 835-5915.
L(late)D, $6-$18
Corbin's Bar & Grill
North Central's Calico Cow has a new neighbor just a block or so north of the canal. This smartly modern rehab of an older tavern is drawing the crowds for its food, atmosphere and service, all of which are exemplary. A terrific summer starter is the Smoked (in house) Salmon platter, complete with capers, chopped egg, red onion, cornichons and lemon, served with toast points and dill cream cheese. Their answer to pizzas, the stone-fired Quesadillas are wonderful for sharing as an appetizer. There are half a dozen equally intriguing ones, including Mesquite Smoked Pork with honey BBQ sauce and crème fraiche, and, for vegetarians (and meat eaters, too), one with Portabella mushrooms, roasted red bells and Kalamata olives. If Wings are your thing, these glistening beauties are offered in three versions: Diablo (medium hot for aficionados), teriyaki and R and B (Memphis BBQ drizzled with honey) and two portion sizes. Nachos also come in two sizes: large and gigantic. Try the ones with diced Tasso ham. Yummy! The salad guy or gal has a half-dozen to choose from. I particularly like the Club, a version of a Cobb, with grilled chicken, Tasso ham, crumbles of blue cheese, chopped boiled eggs, ripe tomatoes and creamy avocado slivers. There is a variety of Burgers and Sandwiches, and some entree Big Dishes, including a fat double cut pork chop, grilled salmon with a ginger-soy glaze, a rare-seared tuna steak with green onion wasabi sauce and Corbin's Chicken stuffed with green chilis and queso fresco then sauteed with garlic and shallots and topped with green chili butter. If you pardon the pun, that is one hot dish. Desserts, made on the premises, include Cheesecake and Double Fudge Brownies.
8729 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-466-3201.
LD, $6-$19, Closed Sun.
Coronado Café
Although Albert and Scott no longer own this adorable country cottage cafe, the new owners have kept most everything as it was from the very beginning, but added Monday lunches and Saturday night dinners, a long overdue feature. With furniture from an old schoolhouse and kitty country decor, you've got a great recipe for feeding about two dozen lucky diners at a sitting. The lunch menu lists the usual Soups, Salads, and Sandwiches, but each one has a special twist that transcends it above the ordinary. Take the Honey Baked Ham Sandwich, for instance. This beauty comes with sweet caramelized onions and piquant horseradish cream cheese beneath a mantle of Coronado rainbow (natch!) slaw, between two slices of marble rye. Meal-sized salads each have their own zinger (or two) to make them extraordinary. Outstanding, however, is the Coronado Gorgonzola Walnut Salad of various greens with slices of red onion, apples, crumbled Gorgonzola and caramelized walnuts, bound with a magnificent herbed balsamic vinaigrette. Coronado's soups have earned it a "Best of Phoenix" award. At dinnertime, tables are adorned with small florals and glass votives, more candles are put about, and the music gets mellow as well. One evening a large portion of mile high Meat Loaf comes under a cloud of potatoes that have been rained on with a rich mushroom gravy, sided with sweet and tender steamed pea pods. I am delighted with my Coronado Combo, a trio of thick, silver dollar-sized succulent Scallops, lightly sauteed in a Chardonnay Butter Sauce, paired with an exemplary but petit Rib-Eye Steak augmented with a lively Bourbon Glaze. Instead of Mashed Potatoes, I opt for South Beach Mashed Potatoes, made from cauliflower heads. I've never had them before, but have decided they will set the standard from now on. For dessert, the Caramel & Walnut Chocolate Chip Brownie Sundae is a must, although their precariously tall Chocolate Chocolate Cake is a winner, too. Dinner is not served Sunday through Wednesday.
2201 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-258-5149.
(early)BL $6-$8+
Crackers and Co. Cafe
Hidden (but easily found) in an industrial area, Crackers has grown over the last 21 years to be a sizeable eatery. But, even with its large capacity and elusive locale, you can — no, should — expect a wait at most hours they are open. What's the fuss about? Simply honest, down-to-earth, prepared from scratch breakfasts and lunches at very reasonable prices. And this isn't a dump, either. The decor is far nicer than it has to be, and the well-trained staff is far friendlier, too. Breakfast, served from an early 7am (and all the way 'til closing on weekends), runs the gamut from Biscuits & (sausage) Gravy (with a pair of eggs and potatoes) to Granola Healthcakes with Blueberries and Strawberries (fabulous with their optional Praline topping), with lots of omelets in between. For something a little different, try the Pork Carnitas Skillet or the classy California Eggs Benedict, with spinach, bacon, avocado and tomatoes added to the (layered) mix. Lunches include (half-pound) Burgers (the Portabella has the beef crowned with a giant balsamic and garlic marinated cap, a slab of Swiss and dollop of house dressing — yummy!), Sandwiches off the Grill and combo Soup & Half Sandwich; all three categories come with a cup of their super homemade soup, from a changing list of 10 or more. I love at least four of their regular offerings: Chicken Dumpling, Cream of Spinach & Artichoke, (spicy) Chicken Tortilla and heavenly Baked Potato! When available, they make a slammin' Gazpacho and an incredible Shiitake Mushroom. Another department that Crackers excels in is Salads. They are generous, crisp, quite varied and come with a choice of unusual dressings, like Poppy Seed, Raspberry Walnut Vinaigrette and Parmesan Peppercorn, among the more mainstream ones. I adore the Fruited Chicken (I'm still talking salads here, folks!), with raisins, pineapple, mandarin oranges, celery and creamy lemon dressing, and the Apple Spinach with Chicken, which also sneaks in bacon, spiced feta cheese, red onions, mushrooms and toasted almonds. On my last visit there were 16 desserts (sweet sixteen?), which made decisions terribly difficult. I mean, from a list that includes the likes of Blackberry Bread Pudding, Carrot Cake, Chocolate Raspberry Fudge Cake, Kahlua Brownies, Turtle Cheesecake, Tres Letches, Oreo Cake and Sour Cream Praline Cake (and I already deleted half the others), who can choose just one?
535 W. Iron Ave. (west of Country Club Ave., south of Hwy. 60 — look for the blue awning behind Home Depot), Suite 131, Mesa, 480-898-1717. Fax 480-833-8312. www.crackersandcompanycafe.com.
BL, $6-$12
Crazy Otto’s Diner — Big portions and reasonable prices keep this place packed until closing. Lunches are good, but breakfasts are our meal of choice. Try the Corned Beef Hash, the Machaca and Eggs, the Chicken Liver Omelet (don’t knock it if you haven’t tried it) or the Prime Rib and Eggs. Savory Biscuits and Gravy, too. Service is extra friendly, and the wrap around patio is perfect for this time of year.
3502 W. Greenway Road, #20, Phoenix, 602-298-2993.
LD, $6-$15
Dillon's Restaurant
It's a paradoxical wonder. It is housed in a cottage-style building that sits in front of an automotive mall. The cottage looks small from the outside, but its interior is almost cavernous. It is only a mile or two from one of the highest concentrations of chain restaurants in the world, yet it is independently owned and operated. And, it has consistently outstanding food, although it sits squarely within the borders of Peoria! It's not unusual to see the whole place filled with folks who appreciate the fine pecan-smoked meats for which Dillon's has gotten quite a reputation. There is a charming area in front of the fireplace (nice for nippy winter nights — remember those?), but my favorite spot is the room at the back, where, a delightful garden with pine trees, statuary, birds and rabbits await outside big picture windows. But the big picture here is the food, which comes in gargantuan portions. Appetizers worth mentioning include a fantastic Spinach Enchilada crammed with marinated artichoke hearts and mantled under a rich regional sauce; a Southwestern Vegetable Crisp; and the loaded Nachos. Soups are tasty (try the Southwestern Smoked Stew, almost a meal in itself) or order one of the wonderful (and colossal) full meal salads. Sandwiches can also be ordered for lunch and dinner, and are mostly from the smoked and sauced varieties. We recommend the Baked Potato Salad, an original house specialty, as a don't-miss side dish. Most of the BBQ Dinner Specials and the Combo Platters are just plain fabulous. The Brontosaurus Beef Rib Platter was the absolute behemoth in size and flavor, with nine of the tastiest and meatiest bones around. A surprise highlight was the Burnt Ends (when available), which didn't seem to be ends (or burned) at all, just the juiciest, most succulent hunks of beef you've ever tried. The BBQ sauce is practically superfluous. Catfish, here dubbed the "Steak of the Lake," is batter-fried with the utmost of respect. For a grand finale, the Double Goo Doozie, a gigantic scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream sandwiched between two disks of chocolate chippers, threaded with ribbons of caramel sauce and topped with a dollop of whipped cream is great. However, the Mocha Mud Pie, taller than you would think the laws of physics allowed, resting on a platform of Oreo Cookie crust carefully balanced with a topping of chocolate syrup and whipped cream, is to-kill-for. So, take a drive on the Westside, and discover Peoria's most impressive cottage industry. Your taste buds will thank you for it.
8706 W. Thunderbird Rd (just west of the loop 101 freeway), Peoria, 623-979-5353. www.dillonsrestaurant.com.
D, $12-$19+, closed Mon.
Dual Contemporary American Cuisine
As fine for the eye and ear as for the palate, this new venture is a real plum for Gilbert, which should be ashamed for the nasal tragedy that surrounds it. Cornmeal Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes; Skewered Watermelon with Prosciutto and Arugula; Yellow Tomato, Roasted Garlic, Pesto and Goat Cheese Pizza; Bucatini Pasta with Veal Ragu; Braised Short Ribs; and Stuffed Leg of Lamb are some of the goodies that await those who dare to travel. All their Desserts are orgasmic!
4972 S. Power Road, 480-840-3461, www.dualrestaurants.com.
L, $4-$6
Ed, the Hotdogger
Yes, it's just a stand (actually there's another at Jefferson and 1st Avenue, too), but it's where folks have been getting their wiener fix for over 30 years. Perfectly cooked Italian and Polish Sausages will bring back memories of the old country, and the hot dogs are ballpark perfect. You can't go wrong with a cup of their lemonade, either.
Jefferson at Third Ave., SE corner.
LD, $4-$6
El Pollo Supremo
This hole-in-the-wall restaurant is big on take-out, but they do have an ample seating area for those of other neighborhoods. You have your choice of very good spit-roasted chicken or magnifico grilled tri-tip beef. Both have been marinated in a secret concoction that gives them a wonderful and distinctive flavor. The crispy edges of the thinly sliced beef give it a slight advantage over the chicken. With ranch-style beans and tortillas, this is a real bargain.
221 W. University Ave., Tempe, 480-966-3713.
L, $4-$5, SV
Express Cafe
It doesn't have to be August for you to go back to school. Any month of the year will do, as long as your body is hungry, your mind is adventurous, and Metro Tech is not on vacation. Actually, Metro centers on vocation, one branch being its culinary arts department, which it takes very seriously. You will, too, when you taste the likes of Yam & Pear Bisque, Poached Egg Florentine and Vermicelli with White Clam Sauce. Bring more than a five-spot; these kids deserve a big tip!
1900 W. Thomas Rd, Phx, 602-271-2600.
LD, $8-$18
Famous Dave's
It's hard to believe that one of the best BBQ joints in town is part of a chain of restaurants out of Minneapolis! Everything about this place is extraordinary, from the fun decor to the backyard barbecue friendly service to the best 'cue meats you've ever wrapped your tongue around and great sides to go with them. Dave spent over 25 years roaming the country, tasting barbecue from thousands of places, eventually perfecting each of the three important aspects of what he serves: the meat, the smoking and the sauce; in total, winning over 200 awards. Your waiter will explain the seven sauces they serve, and I'll bet you'll end up buying a bottle or two to take home with you. Great family-style bargain platters, too. Don't underestimate their bread pudding or hot fudge Kahlua brownie for dessert.
16148 N. 83rd Ave., Peoria, 623-979-3706, www.famousdavesbbq.com.
BLD, $7-$9, Closed Mon.
The Farm at South Mountain
A spot of rural tranquility in the midst of the city, this quaint cafe with its patios and bubbling little brook sits in a grove of 100 pecan trees. What could be more wholesome, except for the food? Soups, salads and sandwiches comprise their daily fare, with homebaked Scones, Muffins, and Cobblers filling in the breakfast and dessert categories. The pecan part of the Pecan Turkey Waldorf salad is harvested on the premises, and the red grapes, celery and green apples combined with a sour cream and dried apricot dressing make this bowl of greens extraordinary! A Mesquite Grilled Eggplant Sandwich on sourdough, with likewise grilled red peppers, marinated ripe tomatoes and a healthy slab of fresh mozzarella is most memorable. Love that Southern Pecan Coffee, too.
6106 S. 32nd St., Phoenix, 602-276-6360. Fax 276-7929.
L, $6-$9, Closed Sun.
Francesca's Tearoom & Treasures
Three petite rooms make up this Victorian parlor with delicious meals, some on the light side. Compelling Wedding Soup, Greek Chicken Pita Sandwich and Bread Pudding.
4622 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-277-0099.
LD, $4-$6, Closed Sun., SV
The Fry Bread House
Now situated in its new and larger digs, this place still gets very crowded at lunchtime, so be prepared to spend more than half an hour. People literally come from miles around to enjoy the specialty — large disks of light, fluffy, golden brown Fry Bread — folded or open, with or without such toppings as Cheese, Beans and Red or Green Chili Beef in various combinations. If you don't want the fry bread, you're still in luck because there is a hearty Vegetable Beef Stew and one of Hominy, as well as bowls of Green or Red (Chili). Additionally, you'll find Red or Vegetarian Tamales (I prefer the latter), a Bean Tostada, and a very credible Menudo (rojo or blanco). For dessert, why there's a Fry Bread awaiting you with powdered sugar or honey. What the heck, go for them both!
4140 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-351-2345. Fax 602-266-3789.
LD, $4-$9, Closed Sun.
Gecko Grill
Some barbecue places are smokers and some are saucers. Gecko is a self-declared saucer, (although the meats are quite adequately smoked). The "homebrewed barbecue" sauce comes in three strengths the owner terms hot, medium, or mild, but I think industrial strength, delicious and wimpy are more apropos. In any case, they have a complex taste — somewhere between sweet and sassy — that gets your taste buds standing at full attention! A nice and cheesy Twice-baked Potato, fluffy fries, a well-balanced coleslaw, and an interesting version of Barbecued Beans round out the sides. And, a whole-wheat roll replaces the dreaded white bread. Hallelujah! When Gecko moved to its present larger and better location a few years ago, it expanded the menu considerably to include a large variety of Sonoran dishes, some with a little twist. We like the Arroz Con Pollo; the Tropical Pork Relleno stuffed with pork and tropical fruits, then topped with mango sauce; and the Seafood Grande, a crisp flour tortilla filled with sauteed shrimp, grilled fish and crab, all covered with a creamy sauce and melted cheeses. The Chicken Fajita Burrito, an unusual concept, is kinda self-explanatory; the Crab Relleno, stuffed with lots of crab and a binder of cream cheese, is a rich and creamy delight; and the Shrimp Mango Quesadilla smothered in seafood sauce makes a nice starter for two to four. Enchilada lovers will love the Vallarta, a pair of corn tortillas stuffed with shrimp, fish and cheeses. Service is friendly and prompt.
835 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert, 480-892-8099. Fax 480-539-4967.
L (late) D, $8-$20+
Gordon Biersch Brewery-Restaurant
The food and the view of bustling downtown Tempe from the second story balcony make the hike up two flights of stairs (there is an elevator for the disabled and the disgruntled) a happy exercise. Besides, the portions are more than ample to make up for the spent calories. Although breweries are springing up all over the Valley, few have a kitchen to compare with this one. Neither the brews nor the cuisine is an afterthought here, and the menu has a lot of flair as well. For starters, you can hardly beat a pair of Tamarind and Garlic Marinated Chicken Skewers with Sesame Vinaigrette, or Cornmeal Dusted Crab Cakes served with Cajun Remoulade. Or, how about the Great Wall of Arizona Southwest Egg Rolls stuffed with a jumble of pulled chicken, roasted red peppers, black beans, corn and pepperjack cheese, further heat augmented with jalapeño ranch dipping sauce. I love unusual salads, and the Gorgonzola Pear Salad with pecan crusted chicken is a zingy combination made even zingier with their Märzen Vinaigrette. In the pizza department, I find it hard to stray from the Roasted Garlic and Chicken pie with whole roasted bulbs and pulled breast meat in a white sauce, made of homemade dough and finished in a wood-burning oven, although there are nine others that sound very tempting. There are lovely pastas, too, but either the Cajun Fettuccine, loaded with Andouille sausage, grilled chicken and shrimp in a zippy tomato cream sauce, or the Pasta Jambalaya's orzo dish with a combination of shrimp, chicken, Andouille and ham (decisions, decisions) will save you thousands over a trip to The Quarter. Satisfaction guar-an-teed! The sticky bun caramel sauce on the Warm Apple Bread Pudding is quite addictive. And don't forget the brewery part: mini-flights of the homebrews help you to decide which to zero in on.
420 S. Mill Ave., Tempe, 480-736-0033.
LD, $5-$9, closed Sun.
Green New American Vegetarian
Some people like it green, and some people need it green. I am not one of those folks, but I will relay the news to you who are about a new place in south Scottsdale that is most reasonable and quite popular. Don't go for the atmosphere (nothing to speak of) or the service (semi-self), but do go for the likes of fresh Salads (Balsamic Picnic Salad features candied pecans, apples, strawberries and figs over greens with homemade balsamic "syrup"), Flatbread Pizzas (make your own with real and mock ingredients or try the Greenza with homemade pesto sauce and vegan Mozzarella), Sammies, Po-boys and Burgers (mostly mock this and that, but a tasty veggie "Green" Burger), and some Sides (only order the Tahini Coleslaw if you're real adventurous). Damon Brasch does best with his Bowls over pan fried noodles or brown rice (the Sweet and Sour is a winner with citrus and ginger spiking sauteed veggies and a fake meat or tofu) and a trio of House Specials (Orecciette Pasta with mock meatballs, tomato sauce and veggies is a nice combo) which round out the offerings, except for a few desserts (several made with soft-serve soy ice cream).
2240 N. Scottsdale Road; 480-941-9003, www.greenvegetarian.com.
LD, $3-$9, SV
Haps Pit Barbecue
Give a guy an inch and he'll run a mile. Some time ago Dan Darroch (Sr.) found a small spot on his used car lot and set up a little barbecue stand for his customers and those folks in the area that had no good place to get grub. Well, one of the restaurant critics (not me, I wasn't writing at the time) discovered the smoky wagon (probably with his or her nose) and gave it a little write-up. The rest is history. Now there are two permanent restaurants (the original stand is gone), one on the west side of town, the other on the east. Both serve up super "Q," using the same recipes and source of ingredients. All the meats are hand rubbed, then slowly smoked over hardwood. The results are amazing. If you like sauce on your BBQ, his traditional is a delightful blending of sweet and tangy, with a depth of herbs and spices not often found. Want something different. They now have Picante, Mint (nice with lamb) and Creamy Horseradish (gives a new dimension to brisket) sauces in addition. If you like your meats naked, Hap's can stand on their own as well. Try the Meat Sampler if you can't make up your mind (although you still have to choose three from among: Pulled Pork, Lamb [yes, and it's fabulous!], Hot Links [more savory than pepper hot], Beef Brisket and Ham). Besides those three, you also get a nice portion of Ribs and Chicken, all for a measly $11.39. I doubt you could buy that much meat from your local market for that price! For those on a budget, their Soul Bowls of one meat over rice are a real bargain, but don't forget Hap's Raps, a big portion of smoked meat in a flour tortilla, served with Jalapeno or BBQ sauce, for $3.19! If bread is a must, all of the meats (including rib tips, served open style to protect your teeth) can be piled high on a fresh bakery bun. And, for 59 cents more, you can get them topped with coleslaw, Tennessee Style. The selection of sides is limited, but with Garlic Mashers this tasty, who cares? Very worthwhile, but a bit more costly, are the Old Settler Beans (three beans, smoked beef and bacon) and the Broccoli & Cheese Casserole. Don't you dare miss dessert, either. Try and choose just one between the Peach Cobbler (or Apple or Cherry) and the Pecan Pie. Both are incredible. Which is not to say bad things about the Jumbo Fudge & Nut Brownie; but it definitely comes in third in this group. A variety of Domestic and Imported Beers, Ales and Stouts makes for refreshing liquid go-withs.
3201 W. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602-279-8090. www.hapsbbq.com.
BLD (open 24 hours), $8-$14
Heart Attack Grill
"Nurse, I'd love a triple bypass ... and a beer." You won't often hear that phrase in a hospital, but it's pretty commonplace at the new Heart Attack Grill, where the menu consists entirely of hamburgers and fries ($2, actually golden chips, still warm from their immersion in pure lard), cola with sugar (no diet stuff here) and beer. Oh, yes, there is one other item, unfiltered cigarettes like Camel and Lucky Strike (okay, they do wimp out with a hard-pack Marlboro), which, according to Phoenix code, cannot be smoked either inside the small venue, or even on their slightly larger patio. Why the nurse calling? All the comely waitresses wear nurses' costumes — not uniforms, mind you — just "naughty nurse" outfits. Forget about Hillary's cleavage, these gals bare far more in their stylized outfits than hospital nurses would ever even have nightmares over. But they're sweet and friendly and pretty good looking (are you Ls listening?), and even do a fine job of waitressing. The whole concept, including the stainless steel hospital tables (hopefully they were bought new, or at least thoroughly sanitized if used), is the brainchild of Joe Basso, who is mostly found cooking in his scrubs in the kitchen. The burgers are really quite tasty, despite the schtick, and come in Single, Double (a more than decent size meal for the average guy), Triple and Quadruple (a whopping 8,000 calories!) Bypass versions, depending on the number of layers of eight-ounce patty, cheddar and Swiss cheeses, red onion, bacon, tomato, and mustard and mayo, all sandwiched between soft buns (clover, not nurses'). They encourage picture taking, going as far as asking people to post them on their Web site, and additionally, there is a small area at the entrance for selling their own T-shirts, nurses' outfits and two books: How to Start a Restaurant and The Heart Attack Grill Diet. I'm afraid if you follow the latter, you won't really need the former.
44th St. and Thomas Road, SW corner; www.heartattackgrill.com.
LD, $4-$10
Honey Bear's BBQ
The lovely folks of this well-established eatery state "You don't need no teeth to eat our meat" — and I reckon that's true. Especially for the pulled pork, which is, in my opinion, the Bear's best sandwich filling. Get it with some crisp slaw or cowboy beans and you're surely in hog heaven. The ribs are not only tender, but nicely mesquite smoked and slathered with a piquant Tennessee-style barbecue sauce that perhaps should be patented. The chicken may be crisp-skinned, but it also has a heart of gold — soft and tender gold, that is! And, as full as you may be, be sure you don't miss the peach cobbler.
5012 E. Van Buren St., Phoenix. 602-273-9148.
LD, $5-15+
The Horny Toad
Every month or so, me and the boys get a hankerin' to go up North and get us a mess of Fried Chicken and Bar-B-Que Ribs at this rustic compound in old Cave Creek. In the winter, you can sit by a roaring fire and sip a brandy to allay the cold. (Summer is minus the fire, but not the atmosphere.)
6738 E. Cave Creek Road, Cave Creek, 480-488-9542 or 602-997-9622.
