Al’s Beef

There’s just something in a restaurant’s name that will lure me for a visit. Like Al’s Beef. Those words together conjure up fantastical images of hunky blue collared workers. You know the ones; they work hard and play harder, each one starving, looking to get his fill of Al’s thick juicy Italian Beef sandwiches.

In 1938, Al’s Beef opened as a food stand in Chicago’s Little Italy. The idea for the Italian Beef sandwich came during the Depression when meat was scarce. So, in order to help stretch the meat to feed more people, the roasted beef was shaved extremely thin, then made into sandwiches.

Over the years, Al’s flourished, earning accolades such as Best Sandwich in America from Esquire, Playboy and others. They were even featured earlier this year on one of my favorite TV shows, Man vs. Food, in an episode titled “Da Italian Stance.”

In Chicago, there’s an art to eating an Al’s Italian Beef sandwich. In the “Italian Stance,” the diner’s knees are slightly bent, posterior slightly up and out and elbows on the counter. This technique helps to avoid getting Al’s gravy on your shoes. It’s not the traditional gravy you might think of putting on mashed potatoes, but more like the pan drippings from the roasted beef they dunk the entire sandwich in, bread and all.

Unfortunately, all of this amazing history and media attention doesn’t seem to matter to the new franchised location in North Scottsdale. The concept here is fast casual, order from the counter, then getting your number called a few minutes later to pick up your food.

The interior was spotlessly clean, the staff relatively friendly and the concept easy, what’s not to like? But with so much going for it we were surprised just how mediocre the food was.

I started with the Big Al ($7.45), the 8-inch version of their Italian Beef sandwiches. I want to eat it like Chicagoans do, so I ordered the sandwich dipped, then covered with hot giardiniera, a relish of pickled peppers and vegetables. Taking my position, with my butt in the air and my elbows on the counter top, I took the first bite. First I was amazed just how juicy the sandwich was. Then another surprise hit me — the meat was almost flavorless.

I was so disappointed that after a few bites I decided to try a Chicago Dog ($3.10). But the hot dog was so small and shriveled I wasn’t sure you could call it a hot dog; more like a hot mess.

There were a few highlights, including the delicious Bleu Cheese Fries ($4.50), perfectly cooked French fries covered with bleu cheese crumbles and dressing. Another treat was the Tamale Boat ($5.80), two Chicago-style tamales covered with chili, cheddar cheese and onions.

When one of the employees decided that it was time for Headbangers Ball, playing thrash metal over the restaurant’s loudspeakers, I took it as my cue to leave.

Maybe this place should be renamed Al’s French Fried Tamale Mosh Pit? Rock on man, rock on.

SanTan Brewery

SanTan Brewery in downtown Chandler is a great place to enjoy fantastic beer at low prices. Opened in 2007 and located in historic downtown Chandler, SanTan occupies a former bank building where some artifacts were left intact. Stacks of safety deposit boxes have been re-purposed into seating and the old vault remains as an office for the pub.

The open space is relaxed and comfortable, though with many hard surfaces it tends be on the noisy side. For a quieter experience, opt for one of the many seats on the patio, where there can be great people watching.

Summer heat requires ice-cold beer. For me, beer is like enjoying a really good piece of bread. Grains and yeast that are mixed together to produce something that is so hearty and satisfying that one beer is simply not enough.

I tend to order dark beers, since I enjoy the deep robust flavors, and SanTan’s Gordo Stout ($4.75) certainly fit the bill. With smooth notes of chocolate and coffee, this beer wasn’t as heavy and belly filling as you might expect. The Gordo is one of the lowest alcohol content beer made here and, for me, one of the most flavorful.

The menu at SanTan ranges from salads and pizzas to sandwiches and burgers, with most being $12 or less. There are so many tasty appetizers that it’s easy to go a little crazy and order too many. The Downtown Sliders ($8), three juicy mini burgers topped with beer-braised onions and beer mustard, were way too easy to eat. The SanTan Stingers ($8.50) are wonton wrappers filled with Applewood-smoked bacon and spicy jack cheese, then deep friend for a light crispy crunch. Soft Pub Pretzels ($6.50) were were another good choice.

As for entrees, the SanTan Ruben ($9) was piled high with juicy and flavorful corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The tender Rib-Eye Philly ($10.50) was wrapped in warm soft beer bread and packed with beef, peppers and onions, then slathered with house beer cheese. Each sandwich came with French fries that were worthy of their own plate.

SanTan Brewery offers dessert, but you might want to learn from me and pace yourself.

VITAL STATISTICS

Al’s Beef
Open Daily
14740 N. Northsight Blvd., Scottsdale
480-443-1200
www.alsbeef.com

SanTan Brewery
Open Daily
8 S. San Marcos Place, Chandler
480-917-8700
www.santanbrewing.com

Quick Takes

You can’t have a serious conversation about deep-dish pizza without paying homage to the granddaddy of them all, Pizzeria Uno.

While I’ve never been to the original in Chicago, I used to visit their outpost in the Arizona Center. So I was disappointed when Uno closed in June after 16 years. Restaurants in Tempe and Mesa also have closed. So unless I buy a plane ticket to Chicago to get my fill on the original buttery flaky crust, I’d better start searching the Valley to fill the void.

Vito’s Pizza

Vito’s was my go-to pizzeria when I lived in the west side. Their traditional thin crust pizza, cut into squares, was my favorite until I discovered their deep dish pizza. While not as buttery and flaky as Uno’s, the sheer density of their pizza was enough to dub it “the gut bomb.” This is not pizza for the faint of heart — a single large pie easily weighs more than five pounds. With so much cheese, meat and tasty crust, Vito’s ranks high as my favorite deep dish pizza joint in the Valley.

4318 W. Northern Ave. Glendale; 623-930-1644

Rosati’s Pizza

While not as substantial as Vito’s, Rosati’s offers a deep dish pan pizza as well as a double crusted or stuffed crust pizza. How many pizza places have this kind of variety? While the stuffed crust is pretty tasty and a nice alternative to the deep-dish, a Rosati’s Monster pan pizza can’t be messed with. The thick crust is loaded with sausage, pepperoni, bacon, ground beef, mushroom, green peppers, Canadian bacon and olives. The crust was a little on the oily side, which made gobbling this one down super easy. 

Multiple Valley locations

China Chili

For tasty Chinese food, this is my go-to restaurant. Start with the Boiled Won Tons ($5.95), pork filled dumplings bathing in a thick, hearty, spicy and slightly sweet broth. Followed by the Salt and Pepper Shrimp ($12.95), a plate full of lightly battered and fried shrimp covered with pan cooked green onions and jalapeños — delish.

The Orange Chicken ($9.50) is a pounded out chicken breast, lightly coated and deep-fried, then covered in a pungent spicy and sweet sauce. If you’re into noodles, the House Chow Fun ($8.50) has beef, chicken and shrimp.

Family style sharing works great here.

Lunch and Dinner; Open daily,
302 E. Flower St. Phoenix
Phone: (602) 266-4463
www.chinachilirestaurant.com

George and Dragon

This lively pub is the closest you will get to England without crossing the pond. Although some of the British dishes — such as fish and chips — might be considered American (and vice-versa), there are several items on the menu that would be pretty foreign to the average Joe, but not the average Nigel. Scotch Eggs would be a fine example. How many Phoenicians have had a hard-boiled egg surrounded with English-style sausage meat and breadcrumbs, served cold with a Branston pickle?

Cornish Pasties, a puff pastry pie of marinated ground beef and vegetables, can be an appetizer or a savory entree. Another tasty dish is Bangers and Mash, three pork sausages floating in gravy and grilled onions. Pound for pound, the food served here is certainly worth not having to make that trip.

Lunch and dinner; open daily,
4240 N. Central Ave., Phoenix
Phone: 602-241-0018
www.georgeanddragonpub.net